Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 7,443 total · 41/month
Shared By: Brian Quiter on Apr 3, 2004
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Access Issue: No new bolts. Respect signs and private property owners near the crags. Details

Description

Climb the crack system just left of AC Devil Dog. Lots of stemming makes for a good leg workout.

Protection

With two cracks one small and one large, almost any pro can be used.

Photos

Will M.
Oakland
Will M.   Oakland
I found the anchor at the top of this climb to be in need of a replacement. Two cold-shuts; one is a rusty spinner and the other is worn half through.

Climbing the right hand crack without stemming left is a nice variation if you're looking for more of a challenge. Feb 19, 2012
BFK
San Francisco
BFK   San Francisco
I agree with fivefun. I was there Nov. 2012 and the right cold-shut is in serious need of replacement and would not recommend anyone use it to be lowered off (rap-off which should always be standard practice or traverse over to Rawhide chains).

The cold-shut is worn through at an angle and after reading a about a recent fatality in Switzerland due to a partially worn fixed draw that cut the climbers rope, I can see the potential for a similar situation.

(rockandice.com/news/2301-fa…) Nov 12, 2012
Seigi K
Berkeley, CA
 
Seigi K   Berkeley, CA
 
Anchor has been replaced. Looks great! Use it + a bolt to its right as a directional if you want to TR AC Devil Dog. Nov 1, 2015