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Routes in Sugarloaf, West Face

Back in Black T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Crack Face T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cry Mary T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Espresso S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fat Merchant Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Ghost in the Machine T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Grand Delusion T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Hanging by a Thread S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Happy Face T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hyperspace T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Macrel Sky T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Man Who Fell to Earth, The T,S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Northern Lights T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Only the Young Die Brave T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pan Dulce T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Podium, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Pony Express T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slippy Liam S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Sugar Daddy S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
TM's Deviation T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Twist and Shout T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Under the Spreading Atrophy T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
West Chimney T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, Sport, 90 ft
FA: Aidan McGuire
Page Views: 1,400 total, 11/month
Shared By: caughtinside on Jan 22, 2007
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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This route starts up the arete just left of Hyperspace. thin crack + arete to begin. Clip first bolt, a couple more arete moves, then transfer onto face and continue up to bolted anchor.

First .10c crux is directly above first bolt. Second crux is right before the anchor.


Upper west face of sugarloaf, just left of Hyperspace. Receives pm sun, and was sheltered from the wind somewhat.


small gear to protect opening moves. yellow alien + small nut. Then all bolts (8?)


route decreases in difficulty dramatically after the first bolt. not a super good route... Jun 1, 2017
Paul Rezucha
Paul Rezucha   Alameda
Happy Face was a great climb! Much longer than it looked with lots of continuous thought provoking climbing. I placed 2 small cams and a Metolius Astro brass nut as the highest piece in the initial crack which sowed up the starting sequence moves very nicely. Getting past the sloping mantle took some figuring out and the upper section didn't let up much. I did go straight up from the last bolt and the moves were very thin with feet a little above the bolt. Being in a somewhat sideways position, slipping from that position was not a fun option. I guess this was the crux of the climb for me. Mentally at least. All in all a very fun climb that was challenging from beginning to end! Apr 30, 2010
Los Alamos, NM
Aerili   Los Alamos, NM
I used two Zeros (gray and blue) in the crack before the first bolt.

From the ground, the arete looks like the hard part and the upper section looks cruiser--but I personally found this to be reversed. I didn't have any real problems past the first bolt but found the crux to be the entire middle section of the route: between second and fourth bolts.

I also finished the route by going left into the crack at the top, but if you went straight up the face, it looked fairly blank, hard and cruxy (probably harder than anything below). Overall, most of the route requires you to climb mindfully.

Bring your A game in balance!

P.S. I believe there are 5 bolts total, not counting the anchor. Feb 2, 2010
San Francisco
tallmark515   San Francisco
Placed a .3 Camalot high in the crack from ground level, then gunned for the first bolt. Sustained moves from ground to just past the 1st bolt. Use the bomber arete/rail for left hand/foot.

Tricky mantle over the slopey rail up high.

I finished the route by making a big move out left and finishing up on the crack. I'm sure other options exist straight up on the face.

USE CAUTION WHEN PULLING YOUR ROPE AND LOWERING. There is a jug, shaped like a thick, pointed flake about 3/4 of the way up. Make sure that your rope is running over it and not under it. It will eat your rope. Mar 31, 2009