Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Whiskey Peak

Amber T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Archaeopteryx T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Back to Basics T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bourbon Hangover T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bourbon Street T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Canadian Club T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cole Essence T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Delicate Sound of Thunder, The T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Desert Wave T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
First Grader T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Frogland T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Geriatrics (AKA Ben Dover Beelzebub) T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Ixtlan T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Kenny Laguna T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Matzoland S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mazatlan T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Miss Conception T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Misunderstanding, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Only the Good Die Young T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Our Father T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Perplexity T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Rain Dance T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Return To Forever T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sand Felipe S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sandblast T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Tales from the Gripped T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Triassic Sands T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wholesome Fullback T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Dave Wonderly, Marge Floyd, & Dave Evans - 1988
Page Views: 8,415 total, 47/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Mar 31, 2003
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


60 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

One of my favorite short trad climbs of all time! Two excellent pitches are different in character but both technical and delicate. Not nearly as scary as the guide makes it out to be. Start on the front of the Our Father/Wholesome Fullback pinnacle at a thin crack and face.

P1: Climb straight up past a few bolts to a mantle ledge, clip the bolt above from this ledge, shake out, then reverse the mantle and finger traverse right for a ways until a weakness allows you to pull the roof and climb back left (an RP is useful to protect this "scary" section). Belay in a little hole with a nest of decent gear. 5.11a.

P2: Climb out right to the exposed, sharp, arete and up this past several bolts. Pull onto the face and continue up easier (possibly loose) rock until a final mantle lands you at the top of the pillar. 5.11a.

Rap Our Father.

Protection

Mostly small gear including a set of RP's. Quickdraws.

Photos

FCJohn
Fort Collins, CO
  5.11b PG13
FCJohn   Fort Collins, CO
  5.11b PG13
This route is incredible! A few notes:
The P1 belay is NOT bolted. There is a safe belay stance in a dark varnished pod, but I brought minimal gear on the lead, so I had to get very creative to build a safe belay with minimal gear. There was a bolted belay/rap anchor off route about 30 feet diagonally up and to climbers left, but our belay spot set us up nicely for the direct line up to the arete.

The moves to the first bolt are more easily protected than it looks from the ground. These were protected by a #1 BD, blue master cam and a perfect nut.

After the mantle move and cliping the high bolt, I attempted a very hard no-hands, foot traverse which lead me out into no-man's-land where I attempted a sideways dino to a very bad crimp.....don't do this. Once I realized that you needed to climb down from the ledge and hand traverse the rail, the sequence was easy.

P2 arete was wild and unlike anything in RR. Well protected and never desperate, but the exposure was out of control. You'll need to save some finger sized pieces to build a belay on top of the our father pilar.

Do this route! Mar 20, 2015
Austin Boren
las vegas Nevada
 
Austin Boren   las vegas Nevada
 
both pitches on this are awesome. P1 felt hard for the grade. Bring a camera! Jan 29, 2014
Mostafa Noori
Fresno, CA
 
Mostafa Noori   Fresno, CA
 
P2 was amazing one of the best pitches I've done in Red Rock. P2 felt easier and less committing then the move out of the traverse on P1. Jan 29, 2014
Phil Esra  
 
I didn't find the "10c 15 feet out from the bolt" on p1 to be particularly scary. The fall doesn't look like it would be that bad. I *was* scared on crappy thin gear before the (high) first bolt. Amazing line, max stars. Apr 4, 2013
Short Fall Sean
Flagstaff, AZ
 
Short Fall Sean   Flagstaff, AZ
 
This route is outrageously good. I'm surprised it doesn't get more hype. The traverse on p1 seemed substantially harder than anything on p2. So maybe 11b for one and 11a for two. I'd put it in the category of "scary" but not "holy shit, I'm gonna die". I followed p1 so I didn't look too carefully, but I remember the bolts looking fine. Apr 1, 2013
Replaced P2 bolts last spring. Thanks to ASCA for the hardware. Oct 16, 2011
Bob Rotert  
 
Daves & Marge, one of my favorite routes at Red Rocks! An awesome climb! Apr 20, 2011
Cpn Dunsel  
 
Stellar. One of the best routes in its grade in all of Red Rock. Mar 22, 2011
Tim Wolfe
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.11b
Tim Wolfe   Salt Lake City, UT  
  5.11b
I thought it was a bit scary. Cool route (we like em a bit scary). Jan 24, 2010
sean barb
winston salem, north carolina,
 
sean barb   winston salem, north carolina,
 
way cool route with lots of "a-ha" sequences. do it. Aug 15, 2009
Jon O'Brien
Nevada
Jon O'Brien   Nevada
You guys put up awesome routes, cheers :-) Jul 20, 2009
DEE
  5.11a
DEE  
  5.11a
On the FA I tried to go direct on the first pitch but couldn't and eventually launched out right. Dave was able to place a large cam (#4) high on the second pitch in an inobvious square hole on the left side of the arete. I remember that he was pretty happy to get a cam out there. It was butt-cold during the FA and we had down jackets that I think we even climbed in. Apr 6, 2004