Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Dave Wonderly, Marge Floyd, & Dave Evans - 1988
Page Views: 9,655 total · 50/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Mar 31, 2003
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route

79 Opinions

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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details


One of my favorite short trad climbs of all time! Two excellent pitches are different in character but both technical and delicate. Not nearly as scary as the guide makes it out to be. Start on the front of the Our Father/Wholesome Fullback pinnacle at a thin crack and face.

P1: Climb straight up past a few bolts to a mantle ledge, clip the bolt above from this ledge, shake out, then reverse the mantle and finger traverse right for a ways until a weakness allows you to pull the roof and climb back left (an RP is useful to protect this "scary" section). Belay in a little hole with a nest of decent gear. 5.11a.

P2: Climb out right to the exposed, sharp, arete and up this past several bolts. Pull onto the face and continue up easier (possibly loose) rock until a final mantle lands you at the top of the pillar. 5.11a.

Rap Our Father.


Mostly small gear including a set of RP's. Quickdraws.


On the FA I tried to go direct on the first pitch but couldn't and eventually launched out right. Dave was able to place a large cam (#4) high on the second pitch in an inobvious square hole on the left side of the arete. I remember that he was pretty happy to get a cam out there. It was butt-cold during the FA and we had down jackets that I think we even climbed in. Apr 6, 2004
Jon O'Brien
Jon O'Brien   Nevada
You guys put up awesome routes, cheers :-) Jul 20, 2009
sean barb
winston salem, north carolina,
sean barb   winston salem, north carolina,
way cool route with lots of "a-ha" sequences. do it. Aug 15, 2009
Tim Wolfe
Salt Lake City, UT
Tim Wolfe   Salt Lake City, UT  
I thought it was a bit scary. Cool route (we like em a bit scary). Jan 24, 2010
Cpn Dunsel  
Stellar. One of the best routes in its grade in all of Red Rock. Mar 22, 2011
Bob Rotert  
Daves & Marge, one of my favorite routes at Red Rocks! An awesome climb! Apr 20, 2011
Replaced P2 bolts last spring. Thanks to ASCA for the hardware. Oct 16, 2011
Short Fall Sean
Flagstaff, AZ
Short Fall Sean   Flagstaff, AZ
This route is outrageously good. I'm surprised it doesn't get more hype. The traverse on p1 seemed substantially harder than anything on p2. So maybe 11b for one and 11a for two. I'd put it in the category of "scary" but not "holy shit, I'm gonna die". I followed p1 so I didn't look too carefully, but I remember the bolts looking fine. Apr 1, 2013
Phil Esra  
I didn't find the "10c 15 feet out from the bolt" on p1 to be particularly scary. The fall doesn't look like it would be that bad. I *was* scared on crappy thin gear before the (high) first bolt. Amazing line, max stars. Apr 4, 2013
P2 was amazing one of the best pitches I've done in Red Rock. P2 felt easier and less committing then the move out of the traverse on P1. Jan 29, 2014
Austin Boren
las vegas Nevada
Austin Boren   las vegas Nevada
both pitches on this are awesome. P1 felt hard for the grade. Bring a camera! Jan 29, 2014
Fort Collins, CO
  5.11b PG13
FCJohn   Fort Collins, CO
  5.11b PG13
This route is incredible! A few notes:
The P1 belay is NOT bolted. There is a safe belay stance in a dark varnished pod, but I brought minimal gear on the lead, so I had to get very creative to build a safe belay with minimal gear. There was a bolted belay/rap anchor off route about 30 feet diagonally up and to climbers left, but our belay spot set us up nicely for the direct line up to the arete.

The moves to the first bolt are more easily protected than it looks from the ground. These were protected by a #1 BD, blue master cam and a perfect nut.

After the mantle move and cliping the high bolt, I attempted a very hard no-hands, foot traverse which lead me out into no-man's-land where I attempted a sideways dino to a very bad crimp.....don't do this. Once I realized that you needed to climb down from the ledge and hand traverse the rail, the sequence was easy.

P2 arete was wild and unlike anything in RR. Well protected and never desperate, but the exposure was out of control. You'll need to save some finger sized pieces to build a belay on top of the our father pilar.

Do this route! Mar 20, 2015
Pitch 1 bolts are new. Sep 14, 2018
I'm going to disagree with consensus here and say that doing the crux traverse on P1 is easier as a foot traverse. Just lean delicately into the wall and it's over. Sep 24, 2018
Brilliant route. A #4 could help protect the second pitch. Nov 16, 2018