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Routes in The Monument

Chinese Handcuffs T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Clipper T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cornucopia T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Desert Gold T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13
Handbone T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lizard Locks T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Madcap Laughs, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
Mustang Cracks T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Seduction Line T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Step Into The Squeezer T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
West Edge Lane S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Paul Van Betten, Mike Ward. 1987
Page Views: 916 total, 13/month
Shared By: Andy Hansen on Dec 22, 2011
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

To the right of Desert Gold are two obvious right and left facing corner systems. The thin, right facing corner is Clipper. The thin, left facing corner system is Violent Stems (5.11d). Begin by climbing up chossy rock to where the thin corner starts. Do some fun liebacking up to a good stance and place your gear. Crank out a couple of stem/mantle moves up to the bolt and clip that thing. Continue up the thinning corner with increasingly difficult moves to a wide pod. Once here place that 4" cam you lugged up there and then power lieback your way up and over the overhang to the 1st pitch anchors of Desert Gold. A very fun, surprisingly well protected and high quality route.

Protection

Single Rack to 4"

Photos

mpech  
really fun climbing above the bolt! an under-rated climb IMO Nov 27, 2016
Xavier Wasiak
Las Vegas, NV
  5.11a
Xavier Wasiak   Las Vegas, NV
  5.11a
You are totally right! I remember passing that potential placement and wishing I'd carried my wires with me. Serves me right. Dec 30, 2011
Andy Hansen
Longmont, Colorado
 
Andy Hansen   Longmont, Colorado
 
Totally. I was stretched out placing that cam and the moves above it would certainly warrant its necessity. However, a small BD nut will sink nicely after the bolt and before the #4. Dec 30, 2011
Xavier Wasiak
Las Vegas, NV
  5.11a
Xavier Wasiak   Las Vegas, NV
  5.11a
If you are less than 5'6 you may have to get a little creative to place that BD 4 after that nice new bolt (Thanks ASCA). You'll want that #4 to make the next few moves. Dec 30, 2011
Josh Janes    
 
The protection bolt on this route was replaced courtesy of the ASCA with 1/2" stainless hardware in December 2011. If you use and appreciate updated bolts in Red Rocks, consider a donation to the ASCA at safeclimbing.org. Dec 22, 2011