Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Paul Van Betten, Mike Ward. 1987
Page Views: 1,221 total · 14/month
Shared By: Andy Hansen on Dec 22, 2011
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

To the right of Desert Gold are two obvious right and left facing corner systems. The thin, right facing corner is Clipper. The thin, left facing corner system is Violent Stems (5.11d). Begin by climbing up chossy rock to where the thin corner starts. Do some fun liebacking up to a good stance and place your gear. Crank out a couple of stem/mantle moves up to the bolt and clip that thing. Continue up the thinning corner with increasingly difficult moves to a wide pod. Once here place that 4" cam you lugged up there and then power lieback your way up and over the overhang to the 1st pitch anchors of Desert Gold. A very fun, surprisingly well protected and high quality route.

Protection

Single Rack to 4"

Photos

Josh Janes    
 
The protection bolt on this route was replaced courtesy of the ASCA with 1/2" stainless hardware in December 2011. If you use and appreciate updated bolts in Red Rocks, consider a donation to the ASCA atsafeclimbing.org. Dec 22, 2011
Xavier Wasiak
Las Vegas, NV
  5.11a
Xavier Wasiak   Las Vegas, NV
  5.11a
If you are less than 5'6 you may have to get a little creative to place that BD 4 after that nice new bolt (Thanks ASCA). You'll want that #4 to make the next few moves. Dec 30, 2011
Andy Hansen
Longmont, CO
  5.11a
Andy Hansen   Longmont, CO
  5.11a
Totally. I was stretched out placing that cam and the moves above it would certainly warrant its necessity. However, a small BD nut will sink nicely after the bolt and before the #4. Dec 30, 2011
Xavier Wasiak
Las Vegas, NV
  5.11a
Xavier Wasiak   Las Vegas, NV
  5.11a
You are totally right! I remember passing that potential placement and wishing I'd carried my wires with me. Serves me right. Dec 30, 2011
mpech  
really fun climbing above the bolt! an under-rated climb IMO Nov 27, 2016
ahd
Santa Clara, CA
ahd   Santa Clara, CA
I was sketched out by 12-15 feet of insecure stemming above the bolt, before that #4 placement. Dec 3, 2017
Bobby Mustard
  5.11- PG13
Bobby Mustard  
  5.11- PG13
I think if you fell placing the four you’d hit the ground. The #1 peenut I put in above the bolt didn’t inspire a lot of confidence. Jan 9, 2019