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Step Into The Squeezer
5.10- YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 2.6 from 7
votes
Routes in The Monument
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All the Right Moves T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R |
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Bone Saw T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Brownline T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Chinese Handcuffs T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Clipper T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Cornucopia T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Desert Gold T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13 |
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Handbone T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Headlamp Mechanics T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Lizard Locks T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Madcap Laughs, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13 |
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Papillon T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13 |
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Seduction Line T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Step Into The Squeezer T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Two in the Busch T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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West Edge Lane S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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| Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
| FA: | Andy Hansen & Jason Molina |
| Page Views: | 2,785 total · 18/month |
| Shared By: | Andy Hansen on Feb 21, 2012 |
| Admins: | Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc, Justin Johnsen |
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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet.
Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Description
To the left of Chinese Handcuffs is a twin set of cracks that lead up to an ominous off-width flare; one wide on the right and one thin on the left.
This crack route has it all- liebacking, stemming, a roof, thin hands, hands, fingers, a lot of off-width flare climbing and even a little bit of face climbing. It will test your skillzzz.
Step Into The Squeezer begins with the left crack (the direct line, the wide crack, could potentially go with larger gear and probably a little more difficult). Lieback, stem and jam your way up strenuous 5.9 territory placing pro where necessary. When the crack sort of fades and merges into the wide...step right into the squeezer. From here work your way up the flare- a few #5 Camalots work nicely here although you're able to walk a single #5 up the whole way. When the flare ends face climb to a roof. Be careful here as some sandy chockstones could let loose at any moment. At the roof, make wide stems and exit right to belay at the tree above Chinese Handcuffs. This route is considerably more strenuous than Handbone. Alternatively you could belay in the alcove directly above the route however there isn't much in the way of solid gear for an anchor.
Descent: Rap from the tree above Chinese Handcuffs
This crack route has it all- liebacking, stemming, a roof, thin hands, hands, fingers, a lot of off-width flare climbing and even a little bit of face climbing. It will test your skillzzz.
Step Into The Squeezer begins with the left crack (the direct line, the wide crack, could potentially go with larger gear and probably a little more difficult). Lieback, stem and jam your way up strenuous 5.9 territory placing pro where necessary. When the crack sort of fades and merges into the wide...step right into the squeezer. From here work your way up the flare- a few #5 Camalots work nicely here although you're able to walk a single #5 up the whole way. When the flare ends face climb to a roof. Be careful here as some sandy chockstones could let loose at any moment. At the roof, make wide stems and exit right to belay at the tree above Chinese Handcuffs. This route is considerably more strenuous than Handbone. Alternatively you could belay in the alcove directly above the route however there isn't much in the way of solid gear for an anchor.
Descent: Rap from the tree above Chinese Handcuffs
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