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The Madcap Laughs
5.12 YDS 7b+ French 27 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E6 6b British PG13
Avg: 4 from 1
vote
Routes in The Monument
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All the Right Moves T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R |
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Bone Saw T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Brownline T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Chinese Handcuffs T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Clipper T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Cornucopia T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Desert Gold T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13 |
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Handbone T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Headlamp Mechanics T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Lizard Locks T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Madcap Laughs, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13 |
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Papillon T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13 |
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Seduction Line T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Step Into The Squeezer T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Two in the Busch T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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West Edge Lane S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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| Type: | Trad, 120 ft (36 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 2,618 total · 17/month |
| Shared By: | Josh Janes on Mar 9, 2012 |
| Admins: | Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc, Justin Johnsen |
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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet.
Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Description
Named after the Syd Barrett (Pink Floyd's early frontman) solo album, The Madcap Laughs is one fine pitch of rock climbing. From the moment you leave the ground this thing keeps after you in one way or another for a long ways... it's only one pitch, but it feels like an eternity.
Begin by climbing up and into a huge, overhanging scoop of rock; one bolt protects the initial moves, and another in the roof protects a grovelly move onto an airy perch. Here a small TCU in suspect rock will provide some peace of mind for an awkward sequence working leftwards past hollow holds to a very small stance at the base of the left arete of the formation. The exposure here is thrilling.
Launch up the arete, clipping three bolts, and then move through a steep section utilizing blind, thin horizontals. Wiggling in 0 and 00 TCU's here is pulse-quickening. A bolt here would have changed everything - I'm very appreciative of the FA's vision in leaving this thing naturally protected where possible, yet reasonably safe, even though as such it is all so unlikely. Anyway, a few more moves leads to a thank-god placement, then some easier climbing to an intermediate anchor at a small stance. This is a hands-free sit down rest and the route could be done in two pitches with a belay here. In any case, regroup and launch straight up onto the overhanging, chocolaty checkerboard face above. This is the crux: huge lockoffs on good holds and fiddling in small wires in a vague, crack-like seam.
A single 70m rope allows rappel from the anchors atop the formation all the way back to the staging area at the base. While the climbing is probably safe, long falls on this route are possible if you're trying hard, hence my giving it a PG-13 rating. This is a neo-classic if there ever was such a thing.
Begin by climbing up and into a huge, overhanging scoop of rock; one bolt protects the initial moves, and another in the roof protects a grovelly move onto an airy perch. Here a small TCU in suspect rock will provide some peace of mind for an awkward sequence working leftwards past hollow holds to a very small stance at the base of the left arete of the formation. The exposure here is thrilling.
Launch up the arete, clipping three bolts, and then move through a steep section utilizing blind, thin horizontals. Wiggling in 0 and 00 TCU's here is pulse-quickening. A bolt here would have changed everything - I'm very appreciative of the FA's vision in leaving this thing naturally protected where possible, yet reasonably safe, even though as such it is all so unlikely. Anyway, a few more moves leads to a thank-god placement, then some easier climbing to an intermediate anchor at a small stance. This is a hands-free sit down rest and the route could be done in two pitches with a belay here. In any case, regroup and launch straight up onto the overhanging, chocolaty checkerboard face above. This is the crux: huge lockoffs on good holds and fiddling in small wires in a vague, crack-like seam.
A single 70m rope allows rappel from the anchors atop the formation all the way back to the staging area at the base. While the climbing is probably safe, long falls on this route are possible if you're trying hard, hence my giving it a PG-13 rating. This is a neo-classic if there ever was such a thing.
Location
Look for a beautiful column of brown rock laced with obvious checkerboard cracks and a pronounced roof feature on the left side. It sits far above the ledge system a few hundred feet right of Desert Gold and can be approached by a dangerous scramble up the right of the two gullies beneath the formation. The left gully goes too, but it's worse.
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