Avg: 4 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, 120 ft|
|Page Views:||1,642 total · 17/month|
|Shared By:||Josh Janes on Mar 9, 2012|
|Admins:||Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen|
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Begin by climbing up and into a huge, overhanging scoop of rock; one bolt protects the initial moves, and another in the roof protects a grovelly move onto an airy perch. Here a small TCU in suspect rock will provide some peace of mind for an awkward sequence working leftwards past hollow holds to a very small stance at the base of the left arete of the formation. The exposure here is thrilling.
Launch up the arete, clipping three bolts, and then move through a steep section utilizing blind, thin horizontals. Wiggling in 0 and 00 TCU's here is pulse-quickening. A bolt here would have changed everything - I'm very appreciative of the FA's vision in leaving this thing naturally protected where possible, yet reasonably safe, even though as such it is all so unlikely. Anyway, a few more moves leads to a thank-god placement, then some easier climbing to an intermediate anchor at a small stance. This is a hands-free sit down rest and the route could be done in two pitches with a belay here. In any case, regroup and launch straight up onto the overhanging, chocolaty checkerboard face above. This is the crux: huge lockoffs on good holds and fiddling in small wires in a vague, crack-like seam.
A single 70m rope allows rappel from the anchors atop the formation all the way back to the staging area at the base. While the climbing is probably safe, long falls on this route are possible if you're trying hard, hence my giving it a PG-13 rating. This is a neo-classic if there ever was such a thing.