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Early Access
Routes in The Monument
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All the Right Moves T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R |
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Bone Saw T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Brownline T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Chinese Handcuffs T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Clipper T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Cornucopia T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Desert Gold T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13 |
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Handbone T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Headlamp Mechanics T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Lizard Locks T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Madcap Laughs, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13 |
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Papillon T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13 |
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Seduction Line T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Step Into The Squeezer T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Two in the Busch T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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West Edge Lane S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
| Type: | Trad, 220 ft (67 m), 2 pitches |
| GPS: | 36.03897, -115.46096 |
| FA: | BM JP KB |
| Page Views: | 1,500 total · 16/month |
| Shared By: | Eli B on Feb 28, 2019 |
| Admins: | Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen |
Access Issue: IMPORTANT notes on Wet Rock and Human Waste
Details
HUMAN WASTE: Human waste is a major issue plaguing the area. The Southern Nevada Climbers Coalition (SNCC) works to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations: Black Velvet Canyon, The Hamlet, Kraft Mountain Area, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor. These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out. Consider bringing one to be part of your daily kit no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly. Do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas.
See https://www.southernnevadaclimbers.org/wag-bags for more information on the program.
Description
A fun and varied splitter crack leads to a choose-your-own-adventure varnished face with lots of shade.
P1: Negotiate about 5' of choss and climb onto the block at the start of the crack and put in some gear up high. A crux comes early with a section of thin hands leading to a section of ring locks before a foot ledge offers some respite. Climb through a section of fingers that pinches off to a thin section before a great hand crack. Just when you thought you were having fun, the hand crack gets wide and goes to a section of belly crawling around a roof to a huge ledge and a good two bolt belay.
P2: Put a draw on one of the anchor bolts and step around the corner to an exposed face to begin your journey upward. Pretty much everything on this face is a hold. The easiest way up this is probably well protected 5.6, and the hardest could leave you doing some 5.10 moves with tiny gear below. The varnish provides a combination of pure jug joy and some nerve-wracking exposure. Press on to a two bolt anchor at the top of the formation.
Two raps with a 70m rope will take you to the ground.
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