Type: Trad, 220 ft, 2 pitches
FA: BM JP KB
Page Views: 252 total · 33/month
Shared By: Tommy Salami AKA Lil' Meat on Feb 28, 2019
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

A fun and varied splitter crack leads to a choose-your-own-adventure varnished face with lots of shade.

P1: Negotiate about 5' of choss and climb onto the block at the start of the crack and put in some gear up high. A crux comes early with a section of thin hands leading to a section of ring locks before a foot ledge offers some respite. Climb through a section of fingers that pinches off to a thin section before a great hand crack. Just when you thought you were having fun, the hand crack gets wide and goes to a section of belly crawling around a roof to a huge ledge and a good two bolt belay.

P2: Put a draw on one of the anchor bolts and step around the corner to an exposed face to begin your journey upward. Pretty much everything on this face is a hold. The easiest way up this is probably well protected 5.6, and the hardest could leave you doing some 5.10 moves with tiny gear below. The varnish provides a combination of pure jug joy and some nerve-wracking exposure. Press on to a two bolt anchor at the top of the formation.

Two raps with a 70m rope will take you to the ground.

Location

Access the route by scrambling the gully to the right of Desert Gold. The crack is visible on the left wall and has a decent belay stance at the base.

Protection

Double rack to #2, a #3 and #4 can be of use on P1. 70M Rope.

Photos

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