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Routes in The Monument

Chinese Handcuffs T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Clipper T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cornucopia T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Desert Gold T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13
Handbone T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lizard Locks T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Madcap Laughs, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
Mustang Cracks T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pegasus T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Seduction Line T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Step Into The Squeezer T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
West Edge Lane S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,631 total, 37/month
Shared By: Andy Hansen on Feb 17, 2012
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

Lizard Locks is a strikingly beautiful, thin, splitter crack in hard sandstone on the northern end of The Monument wall. Start climbing to the left of the crack through easy and blocky terrain to reach the base of the business. Place bomber protection and move upwards taking any opportunity to rest before the real fight begins. As the wall steepens so too does the crack thin out. Move through a thin section to a good hand jam pod. From here your creative use of the features provided will bring you to a big fat jug at the anchors. Proud send, my friend.

Protection

Double cams from thin to finger size.

Photos

so good!!!

ideal gear beta
2 #0.75
1 #0.5
2 #0.4
2 #0.3
1 #0.2

wonderful bolted anchor thanks to asca Nov 29, 2017
Taggart C  
 
This climb is really rad the end for me was cool face moves because the crack was too thin for my fingers some .2 and some blue alien/green c3 would be good for the end. Nov 28, 2017
matt carpenter
Las Vegas
5.11+
matt carpenter   Las Vegas
5.11+
Not really sure what the grade goes at but it ain't no easy 5.11. This thing is hard. On the up side though, I was happy to see new anchor bolts when I finally did get to the top. Feb 8, 2016
Weston L
Summerlin, NV
  5.11
Weston L   Summerlin, NV
  5.11
Fantastic climb, mostly .3-.75 camaalots, single to 3 camalot.

FYI, anchor on this one could definitely use some improving. Currently it consists of a fixed stopper, a rusty old bolt with matching rusty hanger, & a star dryvin bolt. Nov 23, 2014