Avg: 4 from 6 votes
Routes in The Monument
|Chinese Handcuffs T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Clipper T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Cornucopia T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13|
|Desert Gold T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13|
|Handbone T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Lizard Locks T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c|
|Madcap Laughs, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13|
|Mustang Cracks T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Seduction Line T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Step Into The Squeezer T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|West Edge Lane S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a|
|Type:||Trad, 85 ft|
|Page Views:||3,541 total, 51/month|
|Shared By:||Josh Janes on Mar 8, 2012|
|Admins:||Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen|
RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. ***** HUMAN WASTE ***** Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council identified this problem years ago and has worked to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas). This project was funded primarily by the American Alpine Club
DescriptionSeveral hundred yards to the right of Desert Gold is a beautiful streak of red varnish - easily visible as far away as the parking area. Hidden at the left edge of this streak is Seduction Line which, in my opinion, is the best 5.12- crack in Red Rocks.
Approach this route by passing underneath it via a chossy ledge system, then scrambling up as for Hand Bone, and finally working back left on a precarious, loose belay ledge to the start of the corner. There is room to belay here, but little in the way of an anchor so make sure the leader gets some good gear in early.
Begin just left of the corner by climbing easily up wedged flakes for 10 to 25' before transitioning back right into the corner - there are several opportunities to do this. Solid jams and liebacks lead to a resting stem box feature, then its game on: Lieback up the gradually narrowing crack until it is barely tips size (0 to 00 TCU's)... A few subtle features for the feet make stemming possible, but be prepared for a desperate 20' battle to the anchors.
This route currently has one of the worst anchors I've seen in Red Rocks in a long time: Two very rusty quarter inchers. Beware. I put new quicklinks and rings on them, but these really should be replaced.