Mountain Project Logo

Routes in The Monument

Chinese Handcuffs T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Clipper T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cornucopia T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Desert Gold T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13
Handbone T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lizard Locks T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Madcap Laughs, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
Mustang Cracks T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Seduction Line T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Step Into The Squeezer T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
West Edge Lane S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, 85 ft
FA: Unknown.
Page Views: 3,541 total, 51/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Mar 8, 2012
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


6 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

Several hundred yards to the right of Desert Gold is a beautiful streak of red varnish - easily visible as far away as the parking area. Hidden at the left edge of this streak is Seduction Line which, in my opinion, is the best 5.12- crack in Red Rocks.

Approach this route by passing underneath it via a chossy ledge system, then scrambling up as for Hand Bone, and finally working back left on a precarious, loose belay ledge to the start of the corner. There is room to belay here, but little in the way of an anchor so make sure the leader gets some good gear in early.

Begin just left of the corner by climbing easily up wedged flakes for 10 to 25' before transitioning back right into the corner - there are several opportunities to do this. Solid jams and liebacks lead to a resting stem box feature, then its game on: Lieback up the gradually narrowing crack until it is barely tips size (0 to 00 TCU's)... A few subtle features for the feet make stemming possible, but be prepared for a desperate 20' battle to the anchors.

This route currently has one of the worst anchors I've seen in Red Rocks in a long time: Two very rusty quarter inchers. Beware. I put new quicklinks and rings on them, but these really should be replaced.

Protection

Double set from 00 TCU to 1 Camalot. Extra 0.4 Camalots. A 70m rope allows rapping from the anchor past the belay ledge and on down to the approach ledge below.

Photos

mpech  
great climb. the fixed gear mentioned in the post above is gone. Dec 4, 2016
Jake Schmitz
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.12a
Jake Schmitz   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.12a
Unfortunately sunk a 0 purple metolius mastercam while working this stellar line and got it stuck about 25ft up the route. If anyone happens to get it un-stuck I would be more than happy to pay for shipping it back to me. Pretty frustrated that it got stuck, but super stoked that I worked my first trad 5.12 to the anchors. Contact me at jake.d.schmitz@gmail.com or via phone at (949)-322-3548. Thanks a bunch! Mar 21, 2016
Pat Hastings
Fort Collins, CO
Pat Hastings   Fort Collins, CO
JF1
Las Vegas
JF1   Las Vegas
Thanks to a donation from the ASCA and in conjunction with the LVCLC the anchor has now been replaced with 3 1/2"x 1/2" SS bolts and FIXE hangers with double rap rings. Jan 27, 2014
Andy Hansen
Longmont, Colorado
Andy Hansen   Longmont, Colorado
Directly below the start of the route in your description Josh is a choss pile of a chimney. In the chimney is a bolt... you could clip the bolt and continue straight up Seduction Line with the belayer on the ledge that is the approach trail to Handbone, etc. Just some added info for future ascents. I'm not sure if the bolt really does too much for the climber but... well, I'm sure people climbing at the grade 12- wouldn't feel too uncomfortable climbing a 5.7 chimney as an approach. Mar 9, 2012