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Routes in The Monument

Chinese Handcuffs T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Clipper T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cornucopia T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Desert Gold T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13
Handbone T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lizard Locks T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Madcap Laughs, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
Mustang Cracks T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pegasus T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Seduction Line T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Step Into The Squeezer T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
West Edge Lane S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Bill Price, 1980's
Page Views: 1,841 total, 26/month
Shared By: Andy Hansen on Feb 17, 2012
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

Chinese Handcuffs is the obvious sick looking tips & ringlock splitter on quality looking sandstone on the northern end of The Monument wall.

Begin up the twin cracks moving from one crack to another. Very good and varied movement. Surmount a bulge midway and stare up at the vicious splitter that awaits. Plug some gear and chug-a-lug your way up clipping the bolt if you please or placing a small cam that protects the strenuous crux quite nicely. Continue upwards. Nice send, friend.

Rap off the pine tree at the top.

Protection

Double cams from .3-.75 (Camalots) 1 each #1 & #2. C3's or TCU's at the very top.

Photos

Amazing route deserving more traffic. Fun 5.10 climbing into a finger splitter crux. Not necessary to clip that bolt. A 0.3 protects the crux very well.

Ideal gear beta
3 #0.75 camalots (can subsitute a #1 camalot for one of them but the beginnings sews up nicely with 0.75)
1 #1 camalot
2 #0.5 camalots
2 #0.4 camalots
2 #0.3 camalots
1 #0.2 camalot for after the crux

Slung tree anchor Nov 29, 2017
Taggart Cole  
 
I took a small fall on the old bolt and it skittered out of the hole a little bit would not recommend trusting the bolt but the crack protects with a .2 or a .3. I think that double of black C3 to .4 would be good for this climb but you only really need down to purple c3 or black alien or gray Metolius. Nov 28, 2017