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Routes in The Hamlet

Die is Cast, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Frailty Thy Name is Sandstone S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Guildenstern S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Madness and the Method, The TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Moni's Money TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Perchance to Dream S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Play's the Thing, The S,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Rest is Silence, The TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rosencrantz S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sea of Troubles S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sweets to the Sweet S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Thy Spirit of a Father Lost S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
To Grunt and Sweat S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Undiscovered Country TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
What Dreams May Come TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
When the Blood Burns S,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Elevation: 4,024 ft
GPS: 36.151, -115.431 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By: Nicholas Gillman on Mar 9, 2008
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen
Getting weather forecast...
Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

William Shakespeare wrote a play filled with some of the best potential route names of perhaps any work written in the English language. One of the crags in Red Rock Canyon has taken advantage of this literary gift, The Hamlet.

The Hamlet is a great wall with a variety of moderate routes that range from 5.5 to 5.10 and has become a First Pullout staple. The wall is comprised of two tiers. The upper tier is where you will find the sport climbing. Three of these routes start in a shaded slot canyon that is usually cool year round. The majority of the toprope lines are on the lower tier and are serviced by three sets of glue-in anchors. The rock is fairly well traveled and has shed most of its loose and questionable holds over the years. A great spot for new climbers and intermediate leaders.

The Hamlet and The J Wall :

The J Wall is a collection of three sport routes directly to the left of the Hamlet top rope area. Confusion by visiting climbers has led to these routes sometimes being mistaken for the sport routes on the upper section of the Hamlet. Which is an unfortunate happenstance as the grades on the J Wall are significantly higher than those of the Hamlet. For additional information on their exact location and grades you can reference the Hamlets topo or the J Wall page here on MP.

Getting There

For those familiar with the area

Approach as per the Panty Wall OR Ultraman Wall , The Hamlet sits directly between these two crags. Its most notable feature is a giant incut arch with a blank face on the left side of the upper wall.

For those unfamiliar with the area

You will head downhill from the first pullout parking lot. Make a left at the fork (Defined by a trail marker), continuing downhill. At a small wash the trail breaks hard left, winding through the slope coming down from the road.... as well as trending right and uphill. YOU will trend right here going back uphill through braided trails with a large tiger striped rock formation on your right (The Tiger Stripe Wall).

At the top of this hill you will find your self on a much more defined ridge trail with a good size gully/wash on your right you will follow this trail until you crest at a high point.

From here you should be able to see the unmistakable incut arch on the left of the Hamlets upper portion as well and the mostly varnished bulge that makes up the lower Hamlet out to your right. The most direct path will be down through the vegetated wash in front of you. This will take you past the WAG bag holder placed by the Southern Nevada Climbers Coalition. Continuing up and out past it will bring you to the base of the hamlet. There are obvious variations to this portion of the approach depending on your scrambling ability or if you should concede to walk the long way around some formations. However at this point the wall is always visible , so as long as you are moving toward it you should be fine. (15-20min total)

16 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Hamlet

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
More Classic Climbs in The Hamlet »

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Christine Gal
henderson, nv
Christine Gal   henderson, nv
Hamlet is a great place when just starting to lead sport climbs.

Frailty Thy Name is Sandstone and Sweets to the Sweet were really nice climbs with good holds and variety (in rock and direction of route) to make them very interesting.

  • * but lots of loose rock, both on the wall and off, watch your step and wear your helmet!
Jan 12, 2009
Brian Foster
Las Vegas, NV
Brian Foster   Las Vegas, NV
5.7 TR on lower tier (undiscovered country) one of anchor bolts is EXTREMELY loose it moved all around and in and out about 3/4's of an inch. Oct 11, 2009
smassey
CO
smassey   CO
Thanks for the heads-up, Brian. That bolt has been pulled. It'll get replaced eventually. If folks are still interested in TRing this, just bring some more sling material and it can be equalized with one of the other anchors.
Also, the left anchor bolt on Sweets is a tad bit wiggly. It'll get replaced when I have time, but just a heads-up.
scott Oct 23, 2009
Oliver
Las Vegas, NV
Oliver   Las Vegas, NV
I think the grade on 'When the Blood Burns' is a bit high. Even with that small initial roof, I wouldn't give it more than a 5.8+. Oct 31, 2009
Thomas Beck
Las Vegas, Nevada
Thomas Beck   Las Vegas, Nevada
i agree with Oliver; maybe 8+ Feb 12, 2010
Richard Denker
Portland OR
Richard Denker   Portland OR
Found this cliff when we were literally blown off Ultraman. Did not know what the climbs were or their ratings but climbed three of them (in the order we climbed them) The Play's the Thing, Sweets to the Sweet and Frailty Thy Name is Sandstone. We rated them 5.4, 5.6 & 5.6 (resp.) with Frailty Thy Name is Sandstone being slightly easier then Sweets to the Sweet. Nice wall for first time leads, or to begin/end a day of climbing. We did not find feeble or lose rock on those routes. May 4, 2010
smassey
CO
smassey   CO
Sometime in the madness of the last month or so, the wiggly anchor bolt on Sweets was replaced with an ASCA 1/2x2.75 SS. Oh yeah, and that TR bolt was replaced about a year ago, but I forgot to write it up. as if anyone reads this anyway... Mar 4, 2011
This cliff has cruddy rock. I can see where the meetup-types would congregate here due to the easy grades and amount of routes, but I gotta be honest-this cliff has very little to offer any climber not interested in a crowded beginner scene. And if you've got a beginner wanting to do a first bolted lead-wouldn't you want it to be at a place with even mildly dependable rock?

As an aside, knowing that pretty much any hold on the wall could be ripped off or kicked down by someone with the inclination, how solid do you think bolts in this crumbly wonder are? Only a year or two old and needing bolt replacement? Even soft cliffs like Cut Your Teeth Crag are holding up better than that. Spend your time at Willow Springs if you're newby-dragging. Way more pleasant afternoon diversion. I can appreciate new route development, but this place is poo. May 27, 2011
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
The Hamlet has probably the lowest quality rock of any popular cliff in the Calico Hills. This isnt to say the climbing isnt good or that its dangerous, but it is not good rock. Scott and I bolted a route there and were going to bolt a second, but the entire chunk of rock that comprises the top 20' of the lower tier routes is hollow and not safe for pro bolts (hence the TR routes).

In terms of the bolts- I do think that if this cliff survives as a popular crag long-term, glue-ins will be the only viable option.

Again, I think the cliff has pleasant climbing and is a good option for those who are new, but in terms of rock quality, it is fair to poor. Jun 13, 2011
This is funny shit. I'd like to add that I did the new routes on the right side of the wall (mainly because I was curious about where the mussy hooks and double ring hangers might have originated from), and thought they were pretty mellow in tennis shoes, and probably should be rated substantially lower. Now I've had enough of that wall and you guys can fight it out, I'm going to go climb good rock-we do have quite a bit of that here in Red Rock. Jun 29, 2011
Eric-D
Las Vegas, nv
Eric-D   Las Vegas, nv
Routes are now organized left to right beginning with the upper tier (The Plays The Thing to Guildenstern)and then the lower tier (Undiscovered Country to The Rest is Silence). Aug 25, 2011
smassey
CO
smassey   CO
This is all pretty funny! I'm always worried about rock quality at the Hamlet, both macro and micro, when I climb there. It's kind of a chossy crag, but it's fun beginner climbing, and it serves a purpose. Obviously the approach to my new routes is more dangerous than the routes themselves - climbers should use their judgement on whether to rope up before they get to the line of bolts. Killis, my routes were put up with a legitimate hardware source, but thanks for climbin' them and makin' sure I'm being honest... In terms of grading, I feel like their grades are in line with the rest of the Hamlet - I put them up in my tennies. Some folks will like them, many won't. Whatever. Sep 4, 2011
6) Undiscovered Country (5.7) TR Only -- First route on the left side of the lower tier.

7) What Dreams May Come (5.6) TR Only -- Second route on the lower tier.

The anchors for both of these routes have one loose bolt. I am not aware of who manages these but if you could direct this comment to them and also please respond so that I know in the future. Sep 6, 2011
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
Chris- thanks for the heads up. We'll get out there at some point soon and have a look. You should know, though, that those particular bolts even if not tightened completely are extremely unlikely to pull out under TR loads that are sheer to the bolt itself.

We'll have a look this fall. It may be time to re-evaluate the bolt type used at the Hamlet. Sep 6, 2011
Thanks for the quick response John. For one of them it was just the anchor that could swivel around the bolt.

And thanks for checking into it! Sep 7, 2011
Is there a new multipitch on the far right of Hamlet? I saw some people doing a route there today. Jan 29, 2012
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
Mostafa- that was Guildenstern, a 1 pitch 5.5 on the far right of the Hamlet. Not multipitch, however, you may want to belay the traverse to the anchor at the base of the pitch, as its a bit exposed. Jan 30, 2012
EnFuego
Seal Beach, Ca
EnFuego   Seal Beach, Ca
Was at the Hamlet Wall on April 20, 2012. Upper tier seems to bea good place to take aspiring lead climbers. Rock, for the most part, is pretty clean. One loose toaster size block was cleaned off by a different party. We climbed all routes and everything seemed pretty solid.
However - there are still two spinners (loose hangers) on two different top rope routes on the lower tier. I'm not sure of the names, but if you're on top of second tier, the two routes furthest right (the first ones you reach) as you're looking down, each of the two right most routes have a loose anchor. Apr 23, 2012
on 6-27-12 at 9am saw a young diamondback on the wall just above the roof on the 5.10, keep your eyes open friends. Jun 27, 2012
Edward Pyune
Las Vegas, NV
Edward Pyune   Las Vegas, NV
Perfect place to take new climbers as an alternative to Panty Wall, which is always crowded. Oct 31, 2012
MN norske
Henderson
MN norske   Henderson
Two new routes up in the chimney. Between when the blood burns (5.10a) and sea of troubles (5.9). One by the sea of troubles felt like a 5.8+ and the one to the left 5.9. These are nice easy climbs and a bit runout. They are still some flaking off some rock during climbing so have your belayer wear a helmet. Dec 7, 2012
Dan G.  
Some anchors at lower tier (What Dreams May Come) are still bad, and they don't just spin. The bolt heads wiggle a bit. Sketch. Apr 9, 2013
^^^^Impossible. The rock is super solid and the first ascentionists discriminating about where bolts and routes themselves are placed.

Sarcasm, for those who didn't catch that. Apr 10, 2013
Karen Nielson
West Lafayette, Indiana
Karen Nielson   West Lafayette, Indiana
This is the best place I have ever seen for teaching someone how to lead. You can solo climb with them up route #1 and make sure they are not back clipping and there is a great ledge at the top to stand while you practice clipping into the chains and cleaning a route. The other routes can be fun too. Jun 3, 2013
David MacKenzie
Albuquerque
David MacKenzie   Albuquerque
To get to this wall (specifically the upper tier), look for the large incut arch on the way to panty wall. While this wall is between panty wall and ultraman wall, it's somewhat significantly downslope of each. Sep 10, 2013
Matt1NV  
Does anyone know the three bolted sport routes to the left on the lower tier? Have not been here in awhile, noticed them yesterday for the first time. Nov 29, 2013
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
Those are listed at the 'J' Wall in the First Pullout section. They really should be part of the Hamlet section, but someone thought otherwise. Nov 29, 2013
Thomas Allard
Las Vegas, NV
Thomas Allard   Las Vegas, NV
My wife Laurie and I are in our mid fifties, this is one of our favorite crags, the approach is easy, safe area, shade early in summer and a large selection of grades, we often see local guides with new climbers there, less crowded than Pantie Wall. Oct 2, 2014
John Herreshoff
Ann Arbor, MI
John Herreshoff   Ann Arbor, MI
All the hangars on the lower section for top rope are spinners. Oct 22, 2014
All those top rope hangars have been since been removed, though the bolts themselves are still there. Feb 14, 2015
BigB
Red Rock, NV
BigB   Red Rock, NV
Anyone know if the hangers on the lower tier have been replaced? Feb 26, 2015
Jeff Albright
Las Vegas, Nevada
Jeff Albright   Las Vegas, Nevada
as of today the bolts on the lower tier are still there but the hangers are still gone. does anyone know if they will be replaced? Mar 9, 2015
Nicholas Gillman
Las Vegas
Nicholas Gillman   Las Vegas
Added a high res beta pic (the max resolution MP currently allows).

I made it a point to include the J-Wall so the difference between it and the Hamlet was clear (I've run into several groups that have had this confusion throw a wrench in their climbing day) . As well as adding the other routes that have popped up on the Hamlet since its original "cast" was equipped.

To clear up the above comments , the TR anchors on the lower portion of the hamlet were replaced with glue-ins. Where as previously a set of four anchors covered the routes in that area , a set of three now services all the TR climbs. Oct 14, 2015
Noah Yetter
Lakewood, CO
Noah Yetter   Lakewood, CO
Loved climbing at this crag. Every route was enjoyable and had no problems with rock quality. Sunny all day so it was lovely in December. Totally deserted during the week, and less traffic than Panty Wall when the weekend starts. Dec 20, 2015
Nicholas Gillman
Las Vegas
Nicholas Gillman   Las Vegas
Updated the Topo pic to include the additions of "Thy Spirit of a Father Lost" and to reflect the fact that "When the Blood Burns" is no longer TR only. Cheers. Apr 11, 2017

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