Type: Sport, 85 ft
FA: Doug Dye
Page Views: 8,792 total · 201/month
Shared By: Nicholas Gillman on Oct 13, 2015
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details


This route starts under a small roof on the upper Hamlet. It is the pull of this roof , the routes crux , that garners the majority of the 5.9+ grade (estimated a 5.9+/10a move by the FA), the climbing that follows is solid 5.7 on terrain similar to its neighbors to the right. A longer draw is recommended for the first bolt.


The fist bolt is alone under the small roof directly to the left of Frailty thy name is Sandstone on the upper part of The Hamelet


5 bolts to 2 bolt anchor with chains.


Doug Foust
Henderson, Nevada
Doug Foust   Henderson, Nevada
Pulling a roof on this quality of rock is not a great idea. This is ok to top rope if you position your belayer out of the rock fall zone. Not a good route to lead. Also, a bit of a squeeze job to Frailty thy name is sandstone to the right and the birds that nest in the roof to the left. Nov 29, 2015
Noah Yetter
Lakewood, CO
Noah Yetter   Lakewood, CO
The roof moves are 5.9 or harder for sure, and the rest of the route is fun too. I wussed out and top-rope'd it though.

There's no more danger to the rock in pulling this roof than in climbing any route in the area. Far more force is placed on a hold when you put your body weight on one toe than when pulling yourself up on both hands. Dec 19, 2015
Jonathan Zamora
Henderson, NV
Jonathan Zamora   Henderson, NV
Very Fun. Seems easy for the grade. Jugs to pull over the roof and for the rest of the way up in just the right places. Jan 12, 2016
JohnniMo McMullin
Las Vegas, Nevada
JohnniMo McMullin   Las Vegas, Nevada
Perfectly safe to lead. The roof move is nothing like 5.9. Apr 21, 2016
Bob Klaas
Long Beach, CA
Bob Klaas   Long Beach, CA
This was a fun climb. I recommend extended protection on the first bolt (under the roof) and also on the last bolt. This will reduce rope drag and make your climb and rap setup easier.

Also, some climbers had the "Red Rocks II" guidebook and stated that this shared an anchor with "Frailty thy name is sandstone". This is incorrect. This route has its own chained anchor at the top. You can see both anchors from the ground if you walk back from the wall about 20 ft. Jan 3, 2017
Idaho Bob
McCall, ID
Idaho Bob   McCall, ID
Difficulty of the roof move depends on the line taken. The further to the right, the easier it is. Straight at the bolt, using the finger pocket to reach the jugs is harder. Apr 14, 2017
David K
New Paltz, NY
David K   New Paltz, NY
I agree with Idaho Bob: I can see how following the bolt exactly would be harder, but traversing right even slightly gives you gigantic holds. Someone drew a chalk X on the most obvious jug on the right, perhaps to say it's off-route (please don't do this!).

If you want to climb it as the first ascentionist did, I'd trust his difficulty rating, but this is no more than 5.8 using the holds on the right. Apr 26, 2017
This route has ASCA quicklinks and mussys on the anchor, and all bolts have been tightened. Jul 5, 2017
P Chuck  
I agree with Idaho and David that you need to stay left at the roof to get the 5.9. There's chalk under the roof's left side and right side so head for the left chalk. They're only a few feet apart, but it makes a big difference. Also, my opinion, if you keep to the left side of the roof, the crux is actually getting to the roof on the smooth wall under it. Actually pulling the roof is easy. Mar 4, 2018