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Ultraman Wall

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Clutch Cargo S 
Destroy All Monsters S 
Ghidorah T 
Godzilla S 
Hex Files, The T 
Mothra T 
Rodan T 
Scent of the Ultraman S 
Science Patrol S 
Speed Racer T,S 
TR Route TR 
Ultraman S 

Ultraman Wall  


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Location: 36.15151, -115.43125 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 12,796
Administrators: Larry DeAngelo, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Eric-D on Aug 12, 2004
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Description 

This sunny slab is located to the west of Panty Wall. Runout sandstone slab climbing is the name of the game. Most of the routes are in the 5.7 to 5.9 range. A light rack and 2 ropes will be useful on some of the routes. The area classic is Ultraman 5.8+. You better have have slab technique squared away before hoping on these routes.

Getting There 

Approach as for Panty Wall. Follow the trail west out of the parking lot. After heading up the hill and down into the gully, pick you way through the large boulders up the hill. The cliff with a smiley face ledge is the one your are heading for.

Climbing Season



Weather station 0.8 miles from here

12 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',6],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',5],['5.8',4],['5.9',1],['5.10',1],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Ultraman Wall:
Godzilla   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, 1 pitch, 120'   
Scent of the Ultraman   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, 1 pitch, 110'   
Mothra   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 115'   
Science Patrol   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 170'   
Ultraman   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R     Sport, 1 pitch, 130'   
Speed Racer   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 120'   
Clutch Cargo   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 90'   
Browse More Classics in Ultraman Wall

Featured Route For Ultraman Wall
easy, fun slab

Scent of the Ultraman 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b  NV : Red Rock : ... : Ultraman Wall
Easy slab climbing on the left side of the Ultraman Wall. The first bolt line to the left of Clutch Cargo. Its a good warm up for the rest of the wall.Like the rest of the wall, it is a little run out between the bolts but you're not going to hit the ground anywhere....[more]   Browse More Classics in NV

Photos of Ultraman Wall Slideshow Add Photo
Ultraman16
Ultraman16
The Ultraman Wall from the approach.
BETA PHOTO: The Ultraman Wall from the approach.
Ultraman Wall
BETA PHOTO: Ultraman Wall
First clip on Ultraman
First clip on Ultraman
Ultraman16
Ultraman16
Ultraman13
Ultraman13
As viewed from Newcastle crag area
As viewed from Newcastle crag area

Comments on Ultraman Wall Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Dec 21, 2013
By Guy H.
From: Fort Collins CO
Oct 26, 2004
There is an undocumented route on the far left side of this cliff with 3-4 bolts to a chain anchor. It looked to be about 5.6 to 5.7.
By Dirty Gri Gri, or is it GiGi?
From: Vegas
Aug 8, 2005
It seems people either love or hate this slabby wall. You don't hear about too much in between. Ive seen 5.10 climbers sketched and 5.8 climbers loving it, and vice versa. I happen to be one of Ultraman's lovers. I guess there's a bit of "runout on slab" concern to think about ,but I felt comfortable leading these routes, as it was somewhat low angle and in the 5.8-5.9 range. Maybe if I have ever actually fallen on slab I wouldn't care for it too much, who knows.(I'm speaking of Clutch Cargo, Ultraman and Speed Racer, as I haven't tried the other routes yet. ) In my opinion ,the "smiley faced" Ultraman Wall is worth hopping on and worth your trip out ,if you don't mind some runout on slab.He (Ultraman W.) is so damn beautiful from afar and near. F.Y.I. These routes are long for sport routes, and I've seen it work best if you bring the second up from the top anchors, instead of trying to top-rope it, but it's a preference thing, as I've seen it done both ways fine.
By 46and2
From: Las Vegas, NV
Jan 3, 2007
Totally agree with Gigette; this wall is super fun and the run-outs are not that bad, just keep your feet underneath ya!!
By marc rosenthal
From: San Antonio, TX
Mar 6, 2007
This is one of the first climbs I led when I moved out here. After my lead, which I found a little spicy, people told me that the rating is a sandbag. Instead of being 5.8 it's really 5.10. Since I don't generally lead 5.10 face, I would agree with the 5.8r rating. There are protection possibilities as well as the bolts, providing you have some nice small gear.
By jessInColorado
Oct 8, 2008
As a new sport lead climber (that did not lead here), I would never take new leaders to the Ultraman Wall. The routes here are extremely run-out, and 2 60m ropes are essential. Ground fall is possible sometimes up to the 3rd bolt. We had veteran lead climbers, and they were even shocked at the run-out.
We thought we'd get in a easy day of moderate slab climbing and what we got was heady, "pray your leader makes it to the next bolt" climbing.
Unfortunately, the 4 of us would be in the "hate it" category.
By TedV
From: Lost Wages
Dec 27, 2008
I lead Scent of the Ultraman, Clutch Cargo and Ultraman today and really enjoyed all three. Ultraman is the best of the three for sure. Maybe they are a little bit run out, but you aren't going to crater or anything. Keep as much rubber on the rock as you can and you'll be fine.
By Brian Hench
From: Costa Mesa, CA
Mar 16, 2009
If you don't have two 60 m ropes there are easy walkoffs both right and left of the wall. The one climber's left is more straightforward, but both are third class.
By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Jan 12, 2010
Update (Edit): As of today, 1/14/10, Ultraman has been restored to its original condition- the final old pro bolt was removed (along with the tat station that had formed) and the final studs protruding from the rock were chopped. We also chopped the stud on the clutch cargo anchor and patched all of the holes.

We did NOT add any bolts to the route- I did move one bolt 3' left so that it is now on route, rather than quite a ways off route (this was the 3rd or 4th bolt, if i recall). All other bolts were replaced one for one, no bolts were added to the route. (Edit: We checked an no additional bolts have appeared on the route)

At any rate, we are planning on replacing the bolts on the other routes on the crag in the near future.

Finally- the mussy hooks placed on Clutch Cargo are for ease of rappelling, and as with all anchors in Red Rock, you should use your own quickdraws for top roping the route.

I do apologize for the less than perfect 'fix' of this route- the heavy traffic at the crag on the adopt-a-crag day limited our time to finish the work- but rest assured that I will return to the crag as soon as possible and complete the work.
By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Feb 3, 2010
On Feb 3rd, the LVCLC replaced 21 bolts on this wall- Speed Racer and Science Patrol now have all new equipment, including new anchors.

No bolts were added, although some were moved somewhat from their original positions due to rock quality/clipping stance concerns. No more than 1'-2' in any of the cases, and in all cases, the clipping stances were either improved or maintained.
By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Feb 14, 2010
I would note that this wall is old school slab climbing and should be treated as such. That these routes are bolted should not lull people into thinking that these are 'sport' routes- the routes, while not dangerous, are somewhat run-out and being proficient at the grade makes these routes much more enjoyable. Science Patrol is an exception- this route is very well bolted and has extremely fun climbing- well worth the second rope needed to descend!
By Cultivating Mass
Dec 21, 2013
A 70M rope is very helpful on this wall for rapping and being able to TR climbs with groups. 2 ropes are necessary on some of the longest pitches, a 70 and a tag line would let you do pretty much anything. A light rack gets you up everything but The Hex Files, bring a double rack if you're ticking that line, otherwise save the weight for extra water. Very warm wall for Red Rock.