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Panty Wall

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Black Lace S 
Boxer Rebellion S 
Brief Encounter S 
Butt Floss TR 
Butt Floss Left TR 
Cover My Buttress T,TR 
Eat My Shorts T 
Edible Panties T,TR 
Granny Panties TR 
Last Panty, The S 
Panty Line T,TR 
Panty Mime S 
Panty Prow S 
Panty Raid T 
Sacred Undergarment Squeeze Job S 
Silk Panties S 
Thong T 
Tighty Whities TR 
Totally Clips S 
Viagra Falls S 
Victoria's Secret TR 
Wedgie S 

Panty Wall 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 36.14957, -115.42988 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 58,879
Administrators: Larry DeAngelo, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: M.Morley on Feb 20, 2004
Forecast:
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Climbers at Panty Wall

Description 

This area is popular because it has a host of moderates. To locate the Panty Wall look for the reddish wall with a large swath of varnish in the shape of black panties. The pine tree that used to be a landmark is no longer there.

All the routes on the Panty Wall are split between three separate walls. The first four climbs are on the separate formation that is uphill and to the left. The next routes are on the main wall and continue out the ramp to the right. The next three routes are on a blocky wall just past the last route.

[Reprinted with permission from Jed Botsford, Climbing Ranger - RRCNCA].


Getting There 

To get to the Panty Wall, follow the trail down to the rock outcropping and then turn left (west) and follow the trial down across the wash and up a hill. When you reach the top of the hill continue to follow the trail until you can drop into the wash and climb the slickrock slabs up to the wall.


22 Total Routes


['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',7],['2 Stars',13],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',3],['5.7',3],['5.8',4],['5.9',1],['5.10',6],['5.11',2],['5.12',2],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',1],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Panty Wall:
Panty Prow   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Black Lace   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 60'   
Sacred Undergarment Squeeze Job   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Brief Encounter   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Boxer Rebellion   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Panty Raid   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Panty Line   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80'   
Edible Panties   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a X     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 70'   
Panty Mime   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Totally Clips   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Viagra Falls   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Wedgie   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 65'   
Browse More Classics in Panty Wall

Featured Route For Panty Wall
My bro Dalon following Brief Encounter, a really fun 5.8 route at the popular Panty Wall

Brief Encounter 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c  NV : Red Rock : ... : Panty Wall
Fantastic route for the grade! I wouldn't say there is truly a crux on this climb but it would be constant 5.8 and fun. Sport route up a steepening wall with good holds. Excellent route!...[more]   Browse More Classics in NV

Photos of Panty Wall Slideshow Add Photo
Looking west at the Panty Wall.
BETA PHOTO: Looking west at the Panty Wall.
Panty Wall
BETA PHOTO: Panty Wall
Climbing one of the 5.7s on the far right
Climbing one of the 5.7s on the far right
Climbing at Panty Wall. <br />Photo by Blitzo.
Climbing at Panty Wall.
Photo by Blitzo.
Panty Wall, right side.
BETA PHOTO: Panty Wall, right side.
panoramic from Panty Wall
panoramic from Panty Wall
First Pullout Overview
BETA PHOTO: First Pullout Overview
Looking East at the panty wall.  Kinda chalky around there. 02-13-2007
Looking East at the panty wall. Kinda chalky arou...
Dan leading a Brief Encounter (5.8)
Dan leading a Brief Encounter (5.8)
Climbers on Panty Wall
Climbers on Panty Wall
Rap down Panty Prow (5.6)
Rap down Panty Prow (5.6)
Sometimes the hardest part of climbing at the Panty Wall is staying awake after the 4-hour drive from Redlands.
Sometimes the hardest part of climbing at the Pant...
One of the 5.7s
One of the 5.7s
a nice shot up close of the wall.
BETA PHOTO: a nice shot up close of the wall.
The chimney beneathe the Panty Wall, a fine place to practice climbing a smoothe chimney. Build a gear anchor in the small arch to the right of Cover My Buttress.
The chimney beneathe the Panty Wall, a fine place ...
Looking at the steep part of the Panty Wall
Looking at the steep part of the Panty Wall
view of first pullout from Panty Wall
view of first pullout from Panty Wall
Snowy Panty Wall pine tree. Dec 18, 2008.
Snowy Panty Wall pine tree. Dec 18, 2008.
Checking the guidebook at the Panty Wall
Checking the guidebook at the Panty Wall
Outdoor artist Bonnie Kelso (www.bkelso.com) climbing on the Panty Wall.
Outdoor artist Bonnie Kelso (www.bkelso.com) climb...
The anchors to the right of the top of A Brief Encounter
The anchors to the right of the top of A Brief Enc...
Comments on Panty Wall Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Dec 13, 2012
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Feb 20, 2004

This wall is nice, and has a lot of moderate well protected lines. It's a nice place for a novice sport leader to do some 8's, which is probably why it is so crowded. Still, it is worth a visit and if you can hit it on a weekday or moderate weather day there might not be a line for one of the more obscure lines there... The harder lines are not typically crowded, but don't expect to be alone.

By Claire
Apr 9, 2006

The climbs were great for beginning lead climbers. Although they were all pretty similar in structure, they were fun to do. I went shortly before and after the Rendezvous and it wasn't too packed, but there were enough people to where the rests between climbs got a little long. All of the routes definitely are well protected

By M.Morley
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Dec 31, 2006

A great place to knock out a lot of pitches. Pretty easy to log a dozen routes in a half day. A good choice in winter months.

By Malcolm Daly
From: Boulder, CO
Dec 28, 2008

I looks like the pine tree at the base of the Panty Wall blew down on Christmas day, 2008.

RIP

By Tyson Anderson
From: Las Vegas, NV
Apr 29, 2009

Exact crag location:
36.149842, -115.429970

maps.google.com/maps?f=q&source=s_q&hl=en&geocode=&q=36+8.99>>>

By Christopher Michaelson
Sep 28, 2009

I visited Panty Wall on 9/27/2009.

Mike - yes, I concur that the tree is no longer standing. Climbers should *not* look for the tree when trying to find the route.

Tyson - you rock for posting the GPS coordinates and Google map. I wish we had these for all routes in Red Rock (many of these areas are difficult to locate).

As for Panty Wall itself, call me paranoid, but I decided to abort my climbs. The routes do look good, but I absolutely refuse to climb an area where my belayer is at risk of slipping or falling ... with no option of anchoring in. The ramp is downward and outward sloping, and made of slick sandstone. If you take a wrong step, you can easily fall off of the ramp and into a 15-20 foot crevace below (or up to 30' if you climb the right-most routes). There are no bolts in which to clip your belayer, and there is NOWHERE to place a cam, nut, sling, etc., at the base of the routes. Basically, your belayer's anchor point becomes the first bolt on the route, which can be between 8-12 feet off of the deck.

By Chris D
From: the couch
Dec 27, 2009

We climbed most of the bolted routes here the other day and the area is a lot of fun, sunny, warm, and just a short walk from the parking area.

Not to be a contrarian, but I honestly can't imagine being concerned about anchoring your belayer here, at least for the sport routes. You'd have to be drunk to fall off the belay ledge, and there's only one route where the bolt is high enough to be concerned, and that's an easy start for anyone who can climb 5.8. Frankly, I was surprised to see people stick-clipping the first bolts here, but then I don't do a lot of sport climbing.

We *did* see another group's toprope anchor half-fail on a fall on one of the trad routes, which was very scary, but not as scary as watching them continue to climb on the extended anchor without inspecting it! Some people's kids...

By Kurt Burt
Jul 30, 2010

Chris, honestly you should really consider giving up climbing if the base of the panty wall has you on edge. This is what causes excessive bolting and reto bolting of our routes. Chris there is plenty of places to place gear along the base or boulder up and clip the first bolt if you are so inclined to jump off a big ledge. But to call off the day because an inability to think is why a lot of us locals are fighting a losing battle with bolts popping up all over the place on some of our most coveted and prized routes.

Great wall, low key, can be busy, I guide there often. Have fun and use your head all will be good.

By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Jul 30, 2010

I should actually comment that if you have a rack with you, there's plenty of opportunity to anchor your belayer along the sloping part of the ledge, but i also agree with the other postersin that its unlikely any fall off the ledge would ever actually occur.

More to the point, Panty Wall is full of people trying to kill themselves- seriously, if you ever want to go somewhere where people do not know what they are doing and are completely unaware of their situation, panty wall is where its at. And to my knowledge there has never been anyone who has fallen off that ledge.

By smassey
From: CO
Nov 10, 2010

I guide there quite a bit as well, and often anchor my clients, since some of them are also uncomfortable with their positioning on that ledge. A #3 C4 is more than adequate to anchor a belayer to on the three right-hand routes. If that does not feel adequate, more gear can be had, or the use of a stick-clip recommended. As Mr. Burt stated, this is not an area that needs retro-belayer-anchors.

By Eric-D
From: Las Vegas, nv
Mar 12, 2011

I don't know if this is useful to anyone. I may try to post gps tracks to the walls as I can.

maps.google.com/maps/ms?ie=UTF8&hl=en&msa=0&msid=20044073595>>>

By Eric-D
From: Las Vegas, nv
Jul 29, 2011

These routes are now sorted from left to right on the wall. The first 3 routes are on Panty Prow and the remainder are on Panty Wall. If anyone sees something out of order please let me know.

By Canon
Dec 13, 2012

Out here on 12/11/2012; Tons of garbage on the way up to the wall, crowded full of Canadians (they are very nice people!), and to the asshats who crammed the Wag Bag dispenser full of garbage - You are jerks.