Panty Wall 

This wall is nice, and has a lot of moderate well protected lines. It's a nice place for a novice sport leader to do some 8's, which is probably why it is so crowded. Still, it is worth a visit and if you can hit it on a weekday or moderate weather day there might not be a line for one of the more obscure lines there... The harder lines are not typically crowded, but don't expect to be alone.

The climbs were great for beginning lead climbers. Although they were all pretty similar in structure, they were fun to do. I went shortly before and after the Rendezvous and it wasn't too packed, but there were enough people to where the rests between climbs got a little long. All of the routes definitely are well protected

A great place to knock out a lot of pitches. Pretty easy to log a dozen routes in a half day. A good choice in winter months.

I looks like the pine tree at the base of the Panty Wall blew down on Christmas day, 2008.

RIP

Exact crag location:
36.149842, -115.429970

maps.google.com/maps?f=q&source=s_q&hl=en&geocode=&q=36+8.99>>>

I visited Panty Wall on 9/27/2009.

Mike - yes, I concur that the tree is no longer standing. Climbers should *not* look for the tree when trying to find the route.

Tyson - you rock for posting the GPS coordinates and Google map. I wish we had these for all routes in Red Rock (many of these areas are difficult to locate).

As for Panty Wall itself, call me paranoid, but I decided to abort my climbs. The routes do look good, but I absolutely refuse to climb an area where my belayer is at risk of slipping or falling ... with no option of anchoring in. The ramp is downward and outward sloping, and made of slick sandstone. If you take a wrong step, you can easily fall off of the ramp and into a 15-20 foot crevace below (or up to 30' if you climb the right-most routes). There are no bolts in which to clip your belayer, and there is NOWHERE to place a cam, nut, sling, etc., at the base of the routes. Basically, your belayer's anchor point becomes the first bolt on the route, which can be between 8-12 feet off of the deck.

We climbed most of the bolted routes here the other day and the area is a lot of fun, sunny, warm, and just a short walk from the parking area.

Not to be a contrarian, but I honestly can't imagine being concerned about anchoring your belayer here, at least for the sport routes. You'd have to be drunk to fall off the belay ledge, and there's only one route where the bolt is high enough to be concerned, and that's an easy start for anyone who can climb 5.8. Frankly, I was surprised to see people stick-clipping the first bolts here, but then I don't do a lot of sport climbing.

We *did* see another group's toprope anchor half-fail on a fall on one of the trad routes, which was very scary, but not as scary as watching them continue to climb on the extended anchor without inspecting it! Some people's kids...

Chris, honestly you should really consider giving up climbing if the base of the panty wall has you on edge. This is what causes excessive bolting and reto bolting of our routes. Chris there is plenty of places to place gear along the base or boulder up and clip the first bolt if you are so inclined to jump off a big ledge. But to call off the day because an inability to think is why a lot of us locals are fighting a losing battle with bolts popping up all over the place on some of our most coveted and prized routes.

Great wall, low key, can be busy, I guide there often. Have fun and use your head all will be good.

I should actually comment that if you have a rack with you, there's plenty of opportunity to anchor your belayer along the sloping part of the ledge, but i also agree with the other postersin that its unlikely any fall off the ledge would ever actually occur.

More to the point, Panty Wall is full of people trying to kill themselves- seriously, if you ever want to go somewhere where people do not know what they are doing and are completely unaware of their situation, panty wall is where its at. And to my knowledge there has never been anyone who has fallen off that ledge.

I guide there quite a bit as well, and often anchor my clients, since some of them are also uncomfortable with their positioning on that ledge. A #3 C4 is more than adequate to anchor a belayer to on the three right-hand routes. If that does not feel adequate, more gear can be had, or the use of a stick-clip recommended. As Mr. Burt stated, this is not an area that needs retro-belayer-anchors.

I don't know if this is useful to anyone. I may try to post gps tracks to the walls as I can.

maps.google.com/maps/ms?ie=UTF8&hl=en&msa=0&msid=20044073595>>>

These routes are now sorted from left to right on the wall. The first 3 routes are on Panty Prow and the remainder are on Panty Wall. If anyone sees something out of order please let me know.

Out here on 12/11/2012; Tons of garbage on the way up to the wall, crowded full of Canadians (they are very nice people!), and to the asshats who crammed the Wag Bag dispenser full of garbage - You are jerks.