Type: Trad, 110 ft
FA: Mark Chapman, Art Higbee, 1974
Page Views: 4,062 total · 30/month
Shared By: Darshan Ahluwalia on Jan 7, 2008
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


27 Opinions

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Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details

Description

The Mark of Art is an incredibly sustained 1-2" corner to the right of Sacherer Cracker. It shares the beginning (and the crux) of Sacherer Cracker, then branches to the right up the spectacular corner. You may be able to do this in one pitch from the ground, but there are convenient chains at the ledge above the 5.7 section making two pitches more desirable. Shaded in the morning and in the sun after noon.

It is possible to rappel the route with one 60M rope. It will take three rappels. First do a very short rap into the chimney above Sacherer Cracker to get to the Sacherer Cracker chains, then rap to the ledge above the 5.7 OW section, then rap to the ground. With a 70m, you can surely make it to the ground in two.

Location

Start as for Sacherer Cracker climbing the 5.7 OW section to the ledge. Continue up the thin layback section, which is the crux of Sacherer Cracker. Shortly thereafter, move right into a left-facing corner which continues for the remainder of the pitch. Continuous and hard 5.10 laybacking will get you to the anchors.

Protection

Standard rack to 3 inches, doubles or triples of 1-1.5 inch pieces (yellow, orange, red Metolius).

Photos

Alexey Zelditch
San Jose
Alexey Zelditch   San Jose
I think it better to avoid liebacking and try to jamming entirer route. The prime gear for the long crux section is red aliens. 3-4 of them. Jan 7, 2008
Osprey Overhang
...
  5.11a
Osprey Overhang   ...
  5.11a
I agree with Alexey's gear comments. This is the hardest .10d in Yosemite that I've climbed, although I linked it with Short But Thin. Maybe I should do it as its own pitch before I claim it is the hardest. Dec 13, 2009
Bryan Gilmore
FLG, AZ
Bryan Gilmore   FLG, AZ
fa: Art Higbee and Mark Something Aug 11, 2010
Bryan G
Yosemite
Bryan G   Yosemite
Definitely stout for the grade! It felt like a big step up from Catchy Corner, which is a similar sort of endurance lieback and rated 11a. Take lots of gear in the off-finger sizes since you'll probably use one of them to protect the start of Sacherer Cracker as well. Nov 14, 2010
Huge flexing block near top of route. As you near the top of the vertical stretch of the corner, the flake turns into a block -it flexed 1" on me and a bunch of dirt came out. The block is 7-10' tall, 2' wide and 2'-thick and would kill climber/belayer etc. Tread very carefully. Even though the 200' pitch is one of the very best in the entire valley, I would not test that block again. Oct 1, 2012
Evan Riley
San Francisco, CA
  5.11a/b
Evan Riley   San Francisco, CA
  5.11a/b
A stout route. Triples is 0.4 - 0.5 C4s. The death block at near the top is pretty serious. It could easily kill a belayer if it fell. Someone should trundle it. Its kitchen table size and ready to go with some encouragement. Mar 18, 2013
Mr. Stevens
Boulder, CO
Mr. Stevens   Boulder, CO
I second the loose block. I wish I had read these comments before I got on the route. It is seriously loose and will kill your belayer as it is directly above them. It needs to go. Jun 29, 2013
Ben Kraft
San Francisco, CA
Ben Kraft   San Francisco, CA
According to supertopo, the block has been loose since 2006, and has survived multiple attempted trundles. Mar 11, 2014
Louis Mullerleile
Sacramento, California
Louis Mullerleile   Sacramento, California
The loose block is still there, and still flexy. The route is super awesome, and by the time you get to that flake you are pretty stoked about the rest, but be careful and tread lightly(definitely don't place any gear behind it). Jan 20, 2015
mpech  
Very long pitch and very sustained. Has got to be the hardest 10d I've ever tried. 4-5 purple c4 size needed. Apr 5, 2017
Brian Prince
morro bay, ca
  5.11b
Brian Prince   morro bay, ca
  5.11b
I tried to trundle the block. It wiggles easily 3-4 inches in an in-n-out direction but i think, like others who have tried, it's not going anywhere. it needs to come up, then out. and the thing aint comin up without a crane. don't be scared to grab that big boy

and yeah, fkn hard route, wooo! Oct 20, 2017