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Routes in Base Routes

Ahab T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bluffer, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Captain Hook, Left T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Captain Hook, Right T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Delectable Pinnacle, Right T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
El Cap Tree T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C1-2
Footstool, Right, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Freeblast T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Gollum T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hardly Pinnacle T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Indubious Battle T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
La Arista T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
La Cosita, Left T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
La Cosita, Right T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
La Escuela T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Little John, Left T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Little John, Right T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mark of Art T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Masquerade/Call Me Ishmael S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Moby Dick T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Moby Dick, Left T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Party Mix T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Peter Left T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Peter Pan T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pine Line T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pterodactyl Terrace, Left T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pterodactyl Terrace, Right T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Reeds Leads T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rock Neurotic S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Sacherer Cracker T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Salathe (pitch 1) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Seedy Leads T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Short But Thin T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Simulkrime T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Slack ( center), The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Slack, Left, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sparkling Give-away T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
TRON S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c PG13
West Buttress (pitch 1&2) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 110 ft
FA: Mark Chapman, Art Higbee, 1974
Page Views: 3,552 total, 29/month
Shared By: Darshan Ahluwalia on Jan 7, 2008
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

The Mark of Art is an incredibly sustained 1-2" corner to the right of Sacherer Cracker. It shares the beginning (and the crux) of Sacherer Cracker, then branches to the right up the spectacular corner. You may be able to do this in one pitch from the ground, but there are convenient chains at the ledge above the 5.7 section making two pitches more desirable. Shaded in the morning and in the sun after noon.

It is possible to rappel the route with one 60M rope. It will take three rappels. First do a very short rap into the chimney above Sacherer Cracker to get to the Sacherer Cracker chains, then rap to the ledge above the 5.7 OW section, then rap to the ground. With a 70m, you can surely make it to the ground in two.

Location

Start as for Sacherer Cracker climbing the 5.7 OW section to the ledge. Continue up the thin layback section, which is the crux of Sacherer Cracker. Shortly thereafter, move right into a left-facing corner which continues for the remainder of the pitch. Continuous and hard 5.10 laybacking will get you to the anchors.

Protection

Standard rack to 3 inches, doubles or triples of 1-1.5 inch pieces (yellow, orange, red Metolius).

Photos

Brian Prince
morro bay, ca
  5.11b
Brian Prince   morro bay, ca
  5.11b
I tried to trundle the block. It wiggles easily 3-4 inches in an in-n-out direction but i think, like others who have tried, it's not going anywhere. I gave it everything I had.

and yeah, fkn hard route, wooo! Oct 20, 2017
mpech  
Very long pitch and very sustained. Has got to be the hardest 10d I've ever tried. 4-5 purple c4 size needed. Apr 5, 2017
Louis Mullerleile
Sacramento, California
Louis Mullerleile   Sacramento, California
The loose block is still there, and still flexy. The route is super awesome, and by the time you get to that flake you are pretty stoked about the rest, but be careful and tread lightly(definitely don't place any gear behind it). Jan 20, 2015
benkraft Kraft
San Francisco, California
benkraft Kraft   San Francisco, California
According to supertopo, the block has been loose since 2006, and has survived multiple attempted trundles. Mar 11, 2014
Mr. Stevens
Boulder, CO
Mr. Stevens   Boulder, CO
I second the loose block. I wish I had read these comments before I got on the route. It is seriously loose and will kill your belayer as it is directly above them. It needs to go. Jun 29, 2013
Evan Riley
San Francisco, CA
  5.11a/b
Evan Riley   San Francisco, CA
  5.11a/b
A stout route. Triples is 0.4 - 0.5 C4s. The death block at near the top is pretty serious. It could easily kill a belayer if it fell. Someone should trundle it. Its kitchen table size and ready to go with some encouragement. Mar 18, 2013
Huge flexing block near top of route. As you near the top of the vertical stretch of the corner, the flake turns into a block -it flexed 1" on me and a bunch of dirt came out. The block is 7-10' tall, 2' wide and 2'-thick and would kill climber/belayer etc. Tread very carefully. Even though the 200' pitch is one of the very best in the entire valley, I would not test that block again. Oct 1, 2012
Bryan G
Yosemite
Bryan G   Yosemite
Definitely stout for the grade! It felt like a big step up from Catchy Corner, which is a similar sort of endurance lieback and rated 11a. Take lots of gear in the off-finger sizes since you'll probably use one of them to protect the start of Sacherer Cracker as well. Nov 14, 2010
Bryan Gilmore
New England
Bryan Gilmore   New England
fa: Art Higbee and Mark Something Aug 11, 2010
Osprey Overhang
...
  5.11a
Osprey Overhang   ...
  5.11a
I agree with Alexey's gear comments. This is the hardest .10d in Yosemite that I've climbed, although I linked it with Short But Thin. Maybe I should do it as its own pitch before I claim it is the hardest. Dec 13, 2009
Alexey
San Jose
Alexey   San Jose
I think it better to avoid liebacking and try to jamming entirer route. The prime gear for the long crux section is red aliens. 3-4 of them. Jan 7, 2008