Elevation: 4,805 ft
GPS: 38.776, -120.309 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 38,315 total · 190/month
Shared By: Brian Quiter on Mar 9, 2005 · Updates
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker -, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Vicki Schwantes, Justin Johnsen
Access Issue: Caldor Fire closures, August - September 2021 Details

Description

The west face gets lots of afternoon sun, though trees shade some of the single pitch routes. While many of the routes are hard bolted face climbs, there are also a handful of nice trad routes including Pony Express (5.9) who's first pitch is widely considered to be the best 5.8 at Sugarloaf.

Getting There

Upon finding the trail from the highway, hike uphill past Midway Rock (which will be obvious as you pass it) then the trail does a large swithback and then ascends up to Sugarloaf. The west side faces left when you're looking uphill at sugarloaf. The West Chimney (5.8) is easy to spot. The majority of the climbs start further uphill.

24 Total Climbs

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Location: West Face Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at West Face

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 212
Pony Express
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
 6
The Podium
Trad 2 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 18
TM's Deviation
Trad 2 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
 3
Twist and Shout
Trad, TR
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 71
Hyperspace
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X
 4
Fat Merchant Crack
Trad 2 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 45
Happy Face
Trad, Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 4
Espresso
Sport
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 23
The Man Who Fell to Earth
Trad, Sport, TR
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 8
Only the Young Die Brave
Trad
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 4
Slippy Liam
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 4
Northern Lights
Trad
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
 3
Cry Mary
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Pony Express
 212
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
The Podium
 6
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R Trad 2 pitches
TM's Deviation
 18
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad 2 pitches
Twist and Shout
 3
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R Trad, TR
Hyperspace
 71
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Fat Merchant Crack
 4
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X Trad 2 pitches
Happy Face
 45
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad, Sport
Espresso
 4
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
The Man Who Fell to Earth
 23
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad, Sport, TR
Only the Young Die Brave
 8
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad
Slippy Liam
 4
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Sport
Northern Lights
 4
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
Cry Mary
 3
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R Trad
More Classic Climbs in West Face »

Sun & Shade

Routes Mostly Face: West
Sunny Roughly 12pm to 7pm during high season
6am
8pm

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