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Routes in West Face

Back in Black T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Crack Face T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cry Mary T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Espresso S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fat Merchant Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Ghost in the Machine T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Grand Delusion T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Hanging by a Thread S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Happy Face T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hyperspace T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mackerel Sky T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Man Who Fell to Earth, The T,S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Northern Lights T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Only the Young Die Brave T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pan Dulce T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Podium, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Pony Express T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slippy Liam S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Sugar Daddy S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
TM's Deviation T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Twist and Shout T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Under the Spreading Atrophy T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
West Chimney T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ziploc T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Unsorted Routes:
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Type: Trad, 2 pitches
FA: Royal Robbins
Page Views: 1,666 total · 12/month
Shared By: Salamanizer suchoski on Feb 21, 2007
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

"Sugarloaf's wide crack testpiece". Start in the wide chimney and burrow yourself in deep. After about 50 ft the crack narrows to a tight squeeze where you'll find a hideing piton in a horizontal crack deep inside the chimney. After clipping the piton, you'll have to drop down a few feet to be able to squeeze your way out of the crack. This is where the struggle begins. You can protect this section if you have 12" gear or you'll have to work your way up another 20 ft until you can get a #6 to stick. Keep in mind, you'll be 20 ft up and 30 ft out from that manky looking piton before you can get a solid piece of gear in. Once the squeeze chimney narrows to the point where it forces you out, despirate "thank God" foot and hand holds begin to appear and you can now plug in some much welcome gear. Now that the huff is over, make your way up an ever narrowing crack (w/ good pro) to the belay or continue to a short roof where you'll find a set of bolted anchors waiting on top...(60m rope only). The next pitch climbs some slightly runout face up a (sorta) chimney (5.6ish) and meets up in the south notch with Hardings Chimney. Follow that to the top. Much harder than Self Abuse or Midterm and the Meat Grinder in the Valley.

Location

Wide gapeing chimney on the south west side of Sugarloaf. If you can walk into it ten feet and still turn around without touching rock, you've found it. Walk off the top or rap from the chains to the anchors for Pan Dulce then down to the anchors of Grand Delusion to the ground.

Protection

Pro to 12" (if you got it)
Cams, 4"-6" Nuts, 1 set.

Photos

Crimper E6
cheltenham, UK, SW is the BEST
 
Crimper E6   cheltenham, UK, SW is the BEST
 
couldnt find the peg.. Also its death without 12" pro. My camalot 6 was useless Apr 5, 2015

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