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Routes in Sugarloaf, West Face

Back in Black T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Crack Face T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cry Mary T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Espresso S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fat Merchant Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Ghost in the Machine T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Grand Delusion T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Hanging by a Thread S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Happy Face T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hyperspace T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mackerel Sky T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Man Who Fell to Earth, The T,S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Northern Lights T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Only the Young Die Brave T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pan Dulce T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Podium, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Pony Express T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slippy Liam S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Sugar Daddy S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
TM's Deviation T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Twist and Shout T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Under the Spreading Atrophy T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
West Chimney T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ziploc T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad
FA: unknown
Page Views: 221 total · 4/month
Shared By: Salamanizer suchoski on Dec 29, 2013
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

A nice thin sustained lieback dihedral with tons of opportunities for gear makes this a good easily accessible route for both the novice and more experienced climber looking for a route without a big grade or committing climbing above gear.

Start up a thin finger crack lieback until the corner peters out and you can reach (not far) to the right and clip a bolt which protects a few moves that get you out of the corner and onto the face. Follow the bolts of Happy Face to the anchors.

Location

An obvious left facing dihedral just to the left of Happy Face.

Protection

Cams .4"-.75" Nuts, 1 set.

Photos

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Kelley Gilleran
Sacramento, Ca
 
Kelley Gilleran   Sacramento, Ca
 
I think the top of Happy Face is harder that 5.9 no? Feb 10, 2018

More About Crack Face

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