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Routes in West Face

Back in Black T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Crack Face T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cry Mary T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Espresso S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fat Merchant Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Ghost in the Machine T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Grand Delusion T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Hanging by a Thread S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Happy Face T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hyperspace T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mackerel Sky T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Man Who Fell to Earth, The T,S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Northern Lights T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Only the Young Die Brave T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pan Dulce T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Podium, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Pony Express T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slippy Liam S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Sugar Daddy S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
TM's Deviation T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Twist and Shout T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Under the Spreading Atrophy T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
West Chimney T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ziploc T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Unsorted Routes:
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Type: Trad, 4 pitches
FA: Ed Drummond
Page Views: 490 total · 10/month
Shared By: Salamanizer suchoski on May 16, 2014
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Start up a left angling crack near the south face and gain the arete. Steep well protected climbing leads to a short traverse right to the anchors. Pitch two starts out strong but quickly mellows out on holes and pockets up a steep face to slab. Pitch three climbs a steep corner with splitter cracks, over a bulge and up some wondering runnout face with big holds. The last pitch starts out strong and stays physical with little rests until you make a long traverse out left. Double rope technique is suggested to minimize rope drag. Gain the arete and some steep physical technical moves. Pull over a bulge and up easier face to the top.

Location

Starts on a horizontal crack on the southwest side of Sugarloaf.

Protection

Draws. Cams to 1"

Photos

A big undertaking to lead it all. A great 3rd pitch variation is to climb up the obvious crack to the Blind Faith roof, out the roof and then the run out 10.c knob slinging to anchor. 1st pitch was retroed with bolts added by unknown without permission. 4th pitch had starting anchor placed (to replace old 3 pin belay) and 1 bolt added at end of left traverse with FA E Drummond's permission. 4th pitch really should be on doubles and is still very exposed and heady though 11+ with modern rubber.
Probably the hardest multipitch climb in the Tahoe area Dec 7, 2017

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