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Routes in Sugarloaf, West Face

Back in Black T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Crack Face T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cry Mary T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Espresso S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fat Merchant Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Ghost in the Machine T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Grand Delusion T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Hanging by a Thread S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Happy Face T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hyperspace T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Macrel Sky T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Man Who Fell to Earth, The T,S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Northern Lights T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Only the Young Die Brave T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pan Dulce T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Podium, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Pony Express T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slippy Liam S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Sugar Daddy S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
TM's Deviation T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Twist and Shout T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Under the Spreading Atrophy T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
West Chimney T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 300 ft, 2 pitches
FA: TM Herbert
Page Views: 3,313 total, 25/month
Shared By: caughtinside on Jan 22, 2007
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

This is either a second pitch to West Chimney or Pony Express. Starts 40' directly south (downhill) of the top of p1 of Pony Express.

Belay in a shady alcove, start up a slick face squeeze with a finger crack on the wall that takes good pro from #2 camalot to finger sizes. Pull out into handcrack and face on good knobs. Turns to lower angle wide fist, with good feet on the face.

Then get down to business as you pull into a squeeze. A helmet will hose you here. There is a good horizontal rail that you can get gear in, which will help keep the rope running outside the crack. My partner somehow got a #4 camalot deep in the crack. I could barely retrieve it with my nut tool.

With your feet on that good rail, commit to the bombay squeeze. My partner led this right side in, I followed left side in. squirm till you hit some thank god rails.

A couple more easier chimney moves lead to pulling over, and easy slab to the top.

Location

Intimidating looking chimney above and right of Pony Express when facing the rock.

Protection

full rack plus big gear. 3, 4, and 5 camalots used, you could probably place the 6 if you wanted.

Photos

Colonel Mustard
Sacramento, CA
 
Colonel Mustard   Sacramento, CA
 
The #5 C4 Camalot was clutch at the crux. Couldn't get a #6 in that spot and a #4 would be waaaay back there. It makes the crux light psychologically, but the moves took some sussing. Definitely my favorite wide crack at the Loaf so far!

I didn't bring/place enough slingage and I ran into heinous, almost deal breaking rope drag at the top of the 2nd pitch. The climb may be a little tricky that way? I've talked to somebody who apparently breaks it into three pitches, and that may be the way to go.

Placed the #6 shortly before the exit, but that was unnecessary. Feb 19, 2014
AndyBG  
Hardest 5.9 I've ever flailed on! Mar 26, 2013
Josh Cameron
Sacramento, California
 
Josh Cameron   Sacramento, California
 
This climb will let you know if you're a chimney climber or not. More grueling than technical. Jul 17, 2011