Avg: 3.4 from 12 votes
Routes in Sugarloaf, West Face
|Back in Black T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a|
|Crack Face T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Cry Mary T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R|
|Espresso S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Fat Merchant Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X|
|Ghost in the Machine T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Grand Delusion T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b|
|Hanging by a Thread S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a|
|Happy Face T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Hyperspace T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Macrel Sky T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Man Who Fell to Earth, The T,S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Northern Lights T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Only the Young Die Brave T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Pan Dulce T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Podium, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R|
|Pony Express T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Slippy Liam S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a|
|Sugar Daddy S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|TM's Deviation T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Twist and Shout T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R|
|Under the Spreading Atrophy T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|West Chimney T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Type:||Trad, 300 ft, 2 pitches|
|Page Views:||3,313 total, 25/month|
|Shared By:||caughtinside on Jan 22, 2007|
|Admins:||Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
DescriptionThis is either a second pitch to West Chimney or Pony Express. Starts 40' directly south (downhill) of the top of p1 of Pony Express.
Belay in a shady alcove, start up a slick face squeeze with a finger crack on the wall that takes good pro from #2 camalot to finger sizes. Pull out into handcrack and face on good knobs. Turns to lower angle wide fist, with good feet on the face.
Then get down to business as you pull into a squeeze. A helmet will hose you here. There is a good horizontal rail that you can get gear in, which will help keep the rope running outside the crack. My partner somehow got a #4 camalot deep in the crack. I could barely retrieve it with my nut tool.
With your feet on that good rail, commit to the bombay squeeze. My partner led this right side in, I followed left side in. squirm till you hit some thank god rails.
A couple more easier chimney moves lead to pulling over, and easy slab to the top.