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Routes in Sugarloaf, West Face

Back in Black T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Crack Face T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cry Mary T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Espresso S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fat Merchant Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Ghost in the Machine T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Grand Delusion T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Hanging by a Thread S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Happy Face T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hyperspace T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mackerel Sky T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Man Who Fell to Earth, The T,S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Northern Lights T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Only the Young Die Brave T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pan Dulce T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Podium, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Pony Express T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slippy Liam S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Sugar Daddy S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
TM's Deviation T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Twist and Shout T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Under the Spreading Atrophy T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
West Chimney T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Jay Smith
Page Views: 86 total, 2/month
Shared By: Salamanizer suchoski on May 16, 2014
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Thin perplexing climbing to an a definite and distinct crux. The difficulties are short but not to be underestimated. After the crux, the route changes character and becomes a much easier (5.9), but much bolder route with good space between the bolts.

Location

Climb a short easy left facing chimney to a flat ledge. The chimney makes up the left side of a detached pillar formation. The Podium makes up the right side of this formation. From the ledge, climb out up and left onto the face with nice new shiny A.S.C.A. bolts to mark the way.

Protection

Draws

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kendallt
Tahoe
kendallt   Tahoe
I found the first pitch of this to be lots of fun on it's own. A must do for anyone doing a Sugarloaf chimney/offwidth circuit.

Not knowing what it was I took a rack to #6 but in hindsight I could have just taken gear to 3" (though the 5 was useful). There is a short 6" OW section but there's an old bolt right beside the crack (blech)

There's no rappels at the top and Reid lists P2 as 5.11d R so I opted to rap off the first bolt.

P1 as I did it: tunnel up the chimney behind the chockstone. Tunnel behind the detached blocks (gently...) and follow the obvious wide cracks to the top. Probably goes at 5.8. Oct 23, 2017