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Routes in Sugarloaf, West Face

Back in Black T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Crack Face T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cry Mary T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Espresso S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fat Merchant Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Ghost in the Machine T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Grand Delusion T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Hanging by a Thread S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Happy Face T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hyperspace T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mackerel Sky T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Man Who Fell to Earth, The T,S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Northern Lights T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Only the Young Die Brave T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pan Dulce T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Podium, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Pony Express T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slippy Liam S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Sugar Daddy S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
TM's Deviation T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Twist and Shout T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Under the Spreading Atrophy T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
West Chimney T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, Sport, TR, 80 ft
FA: Paul Crawford, Dan Osman
Page Views: 1,255 total, 8/month
Shared By: Brian Quiter on Mar 7, 2005
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

The Man Who Fell to Earth shares its beginning with 'Only the Young Die Brave' at a very narrow crack that widens to wide fists above a shelf. Upon mantling a small ledge, clip the first bolt and traverse up-and-left (crux) across the face to a series of huge knobs (still difficult). Follow these up to a small roof, pull it then go to the anchors.I should mention that I did NOT see separate anchors for this climb, and instead moved right to anchors shared with 'Only the Young Die Brave'

There is also a run-out 5.11c variation that moves up to the third bolt from the left.

If we had 5 stars in our rating system this would have received 4 from me. I thought it was a lot of fun.

Protection

5 bolts to a 2 bolt anchorbring a small piece (~.4) to protect the starting crack.

Photos

Colonel Mustard
Sacramento, CA
 
Colonel Mustard   Sacramento, CA
 
A finger-sized piece before the initial mantle seems warranted. Tricky, fun climbing. Dec 27, 2013
tallmark515
San Francisco
 
tallmark515   San Francisco
 
Gear not really necessary in the begining, the crack is easy and the first bolt is not far away (if I remember correctly).

Crux for me was traversing left to the knob. Fell several times, finally did it dynamically and landed the knob. The route is still tricky afterward as it moves up through the knobs.

Mar 31, 2009
426
426  
A classic very different in nature from it's neighbor... Mar 21, 2007