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Routes in Sugarloaf, West Face

Back in Black T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Crack Face T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cry Mary T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Espresso S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fat Merchant Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Ghost in the Machine T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Grand Delusion T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Hanging by a Thread S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Happy Face T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hyperspace T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Macrel Sky T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Man Who Fell to Earth, The T,S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Northern Lights T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Only the Young Die Brave T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pan Dulce T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Podium, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Pony Express T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slippy Liam S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Sugar Daddy S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
TM's Deviation T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Twist and Shout T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Under the Spreading Atrophy T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
West Chimney T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 286 total, 7/month
Shared By: Salamanizer suchoski on May 16, 2014
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

The podium is a unique route that is a great introduction to easy offwidth and bold chimney climbing. Climb up a short but easy offwidth to a low angle chimhey. Climb up into the chimney over chockstones to the flat floor of a wide chimney overhead. Belay by sitting down. No need to build an anchor. The second pitch is a 40ft unprotected chimney directly below a large chockstone. Climb up to the chockstone which accepts gear to protect the top out. Climb over the chockstone and up a low angle face to a sling belay around a tree. Rappel off the tree with a 60m rope to the anchors of The Man Who Fell To Earth/Only The Young Die Brave. Make a second rappel to the ground or scramble/downclimb the left side of the formation past Back In Black.

Location

The obvious offwidth left of Only the Young Die Brave.

Protection

Cams, singles 1" to 5"

Photos

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Jamie Silliman
Wilton, CA
 
Jamie Silliman   Wilton, CA
 
I rapped off the tree and didn't like it earlier this year (2014). I found that after the initial off-width (5.9), where you can use a wide piece, that I could protect the chimney fairly well by staying more inside of it where I could place pro, rather on the outside. There were some run-out sections, but I did not run it out all the way from the end of the off-width, to the top. Oct 31, 2014
Salamanizer suchoski
Vacaville Ca.
 
Salamanizer suchoski   Vacaville Ca.  
 
Ah yes, you are correct! An R rating it does have though a mild one at that. No real need for bolts on top as one can easily just walk off. Probably faster to boot as one 60m or 70m rope will not get you to the base. You'll either have to bring two ropes (drag) or do two rappels from the OYDB anchors. The walk off takes less than two minutes. Sep 2, 2014
Colin Szehner
Oakland, Ca
  5.9 R
Colin Szehner   Oakland, Ca
  5.9 R
As of August 30, 2014 the tree at the top of this climb is completely rotten and could easily be taken out with a swift kick. Has probably been struck by lightning multiple times. I would not recommend rappelling off of this thing. It would be great to get a set of bolts on top to make the climb more accessible. The lower off-width section is rad, bumped a #4 halfway and ran-out the rest. Suggesting an R rating for the 40 ft of unprotected chimney climbing to reach the top out. Sep 2, 2014