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Routes in Sugarloaf, West Face

Back in Black T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Crack Face T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cry Mary T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Espresso S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fat Merchant Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Ghost in the Machine T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Grand Delusion T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Hanging by a Thread S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Happy Face T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hyperspace T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mackerel Sky T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Man Who Fell to Earth, The T,S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Northern Lights T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Only the Young Die Brave T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pan Dulce T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Podium, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Pony Express T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slippy Liam S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Sugar Daddy S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
TM's Deviation T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Twist and Shout T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Under the Spreading Atrophy T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
West Chimney T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ziploc T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 4 pitches
FA: Dan Patitucci, Joel Moore, 9/1990
Page Views: 230 total · 5/month
Shared By: Salamanizer suchoski on May 16, 2014
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Start up the West Chimney and traverse out to the right past a bolt to a large long ledge system that splits through the middle of the West Face. Belay at the bolts located almost directly above the route "Grand Delusion". Pitch 2 climbs up a blunt arĂȘte past four bolts on knobs and divots to a bolted anchor. Pitch 3 climbs up a low angle crack past a pin to a bulge. Climb over the bulge on knobs through a short runnout to a bolt. Then climb 5.7r to a low angle area and set up a belay in the cracks below a headwall. Pitch 4 climbs the headwall past several bolts on sustained .10b face to a bolted anchor. After the last pitch, traverse to the right to the tunnel through at the top of Hardings Chimney and Scheister.

Location

Start in the West Chimney.

Protection

Cams to 2"

Photos

- No Photos -
a yellow alien in small horizontal crack and 6 foot sling is best way to protect the exposed, exciting moves out of the chimney and onto the face.
The Pitch 1 anchor is also a TR anchor for those wishing to thrash merrily away on Grand Delusion Dec 28, 2017

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