Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Chris Clifford
Page Views: 277 total · 5/month
Shared By: Salamanizer suchoski on May 16, 2014
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Grand Delusion is a ridiculously thin and painful crack to a brutally sustained and sequential lieback. To finish the pitch, you make a sustained 5.10d traverse along a horizontal crack to a mantle just before the anchors.

Location

An obvious vertical seam on an otherwise blank face between the West Chimney and Fat Merchants Crack.

Protection

Cams, single .3 to .75. Draws

Photos

A crack climbing testpiece for those keen on the pursuit. The few that have successfully led it feel it's 5.13? Not that painful but very sequential and powerful for most mortals. After the horizontal crack is obtained a strenuous traverse on vertical smears with heel hooking follows left. This route used to have 4 old pins that rocked and swayed upon falling which were replaced (in roughly the same location. No additional). The original route continues up a run out 5.8 dirty slab with 1 manky bolt to share an anchor with Pan Dulce. An anchor was also added after the difficult climbing and a no hands rest was obtained. Bolted by Aidan Maguire.
The route also proves a nice A1 aid climb Dec 28, 2017