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Routes in Sugarloaf, West Face

Back in Black T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Crack Face T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cry Mary T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Espresso S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fat Merchant Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Ghost in the Machine T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Grand Delusion T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Hanging by a Thread S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Happy Face T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hyperspace T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mackerel Sky T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Man Who Fell to Earth, The T,S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Northern Lights T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Only the Young Die Brave T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pan Dulce T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Podium, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Pony Express T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slippy Liam S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Sugar Daddy S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
TM's Deviation T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Twist and Shout T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Under the Spreading Atrophy T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
West Chimney T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ziploc T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Will Chen, Dave Kennedy, Mark Robinson
Page Views: 703 total · 4/month
Shared By: Brian Quiter on Mar 7, 2005
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Shares the start with 'The Man Who Fell to Earth'. Mantle up to a horizontal ledge on the right-most side of the face then climb the left side of the sharp arete. Very few feet provide the difficulty on this one.

This climb is located about 20 feet uphill from Pony Express and is often shaded by a few large pine trees.

Protection

4 bolts to a two bolt anchor, bring a small piece (.4) to protect the crack below the first bolt.

Photos

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Salamanizer suchoski
Vacaville Ca.
  5.11c
Salamanizer suchoski   Vacaville Ca.  
  5.11c
Those 5/16 buttonheads can be quite deceivingly bomber. I'll usually give them some light (funking) with an old sling and hammer. If they don't budge at all, they're probably good to go. If the bolt twists or pulls out a bit,(not the hanger spinning), then it probably needs to be replaced. What usually happens with those bolts is they crack in half near the center of the split shank and appear to be solid until you give them a good tug with a funkness and hammer. Then their strength becomes apparent.

I inspected those bolts a few years ago when I was going around replacing all the old bolts at Sugarloaf. Most of the bad bolts at Sugarloaf have been replaced. There are still a few but they are on routes that never see traffic. I'll get to those eventually. If there is one you know about and want replaced, let me know and I'll put it on the list. Or I can give you the bolt if you are able and willing to do it yourself. Feb 11, 2016
Vlad S
  5.11d
Vlad S  
  5.11d
I replaced one of the 5/16" buttonhead protection bolts on the route. It turned out to be very bomber (in spite of being 26-27 years old), so I would assume the remaining three 5/16" bolts don't need to be replaced for at least another decade. Feb 8, 2016
426
426  
Great climb, solid arete technique required... Mar 21, 2007