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Routes in West Face

Back in Black T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Crack Face T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cry Mary T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Espresso S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fat Merchant Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Ghost in the Machine T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Grand Delusion T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Hanging by a Thread S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Happy Face T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hyperspace T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mackerel Sky T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Man Who Fell to Earth, The T,S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Northern Lights T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Only the Young Die Brave T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pan Dulce T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Podium, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Pony Express T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slippy Liam S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Sugar Daddy S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
TM's Deviation T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Twist and Shout T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Under the Spreading Atrophy T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
West Chimney T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ziploc T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
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Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Aidan Maguire
Page Views: 267 total · 5/month
Shared By: Salamanizer suchoski on May 16, 2014
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

step out onto the face. Make a short, thin and powerful traverse right to a decent rest. Now climb up and slightly back left through thin holds, steep knobs and questionable sequences. The route ends with fun climbing on good knobs and edges to the bolted anchor.

Location

Located on the right side of the wide detached chimney/pillar left of Hyperspace and Twist and Shout. Rappel or lower off with a 60m rope

Protection

Draws

Photos

TR'd only once, cleaned, bolted, then led.
A really good line up a previously unclimbed area of Sugarloaf. Powerful and technical.
Start by chimney/stemming up between the wall and block (5.7 two bolts). At this point the climber is widely stemmed from top of the block with hands on beginning holds of the "real" climbing. "Cast off" onto the face and immediately into the start of the crux involving 2 traversing iron cross moves and a powerful finishing move. Easier climbing to a no hands rest. Now the climb changes to a second very different crux on insecure slopey knobs before easing up on the last 25 feet to a chain anchor.
TR can be set up from the walk off from Pony Express with a couple of 3rd class moves. Dec 28, 2017

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