Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Aidan Maguire
Page Views: 140 total · 3/month
Shared By: Salamanizer suchoski on May 16, 2014 with updates from Aidan Maguire
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin ., Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Traverse out of the West Chimney at about 40 feet and pull onto the wall immediately to the right (Pull out at a point when the first bolt is overhead). From there the route goes straight up, crosses Pan Dulce and continues up a short bulge and steep headwall to an anchor. Pitch 2 ascends a lower angle, but really nice pretty easy face to another headwall with big knobs spaced well apart, then onto the arête to another anchor. It can be lead in one 120 foot pitch and with a 70 meter rope and a short scramble can be TR’d with a 70m, but it went up as a 2 pitch route. It essentially is the face to the right of West chimney.

Location

Up the West Chimney about 40 feet until you can traverse out right onto the face to a bolt.

Protection

Cams to 2"

Photos

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Alternative variation is to pull out of West Chimney onto Pan Dulce and then head straight up to anchor. This omits the tweaky, 11b sustained 2 bolt section below. Done like this, it is arguably more pleasant and 11a. The 20 feet of headwall to the first anchor is super fun sport climbing.
Pitch 2 is a little run out on easy ground to a short powerful steep crux and then has a final 5.7 insecure thought provoking move to the anchor.
Named after the unusual Altocumulus cloud formation ("Mackerel Sky") present on the day of the FA Dec 28, 2017