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Routes in Sugarloaf, West Face

Back in Black T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Crack Face T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cry Mary T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Espresso S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fat Merchant Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Ghost in the Machine T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Grand Delusion T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Hanging by a Thread S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Happy Face T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hyperspace T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mackerel Sky T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Man Who Fell to Earth, The T,S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Northern Lights T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Only the Young Die Brave T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pan Dulce T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Podium, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Pony Express T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slippy Liam S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Sugar Daddy S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
TM's Deviation T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Twist and Shout T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Under the Spreading Atrophy T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
West Chimney T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ziploc T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
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Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Aidan Maguire
Page Views: 123 total · 2/month
Shared By: Salamanizer suchoski on May 16, 2014 with updates from Aidan Maguire
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description [Suggest Change]

Traverse out of the West Chimney at about 40 feet and pull onto the wall immediately to the right (Pull out at a point when the first bolt is overhead). From there the route goes straight up, crosses Pan Dulce and continues up a short bulge and steep headwall to an anchor. Pitch 2 ascends a lower angle, but really nice pretty easy face to another headwall with big knobs spaced well apart, then onto the arête to another anchor. It can be lead in one 120 foot pitch and with a 70 meter rope and a short scramble can be TR’d with a 70m, but it went up as a 2 pitch route. It essentially is the face to the right of West chimney.

Location [Suggest Change]

Up the West Chimney about 40 feet until you can traverse out right onto the face to a bolt.

Protection [Suggest Change]

Cams to 2"

Photos

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Alternative variation is to pull out of West Chimney onto Pan Dulce and then head straight up to anchor. This omits the tweaky, 11b sustained 2 bolt section below. Done like this, it is arguably more pleasant and 11a. The 20 feet of headwall to the first anchor is super fun sport climbing.
Pitch 2 is a little run out on easy ground to a short powerful steep crux and then has a final 5.7 insecure thought provoking move to the anchor.
Named after the unusual Altocumulus cloud formation ("Mackerel Sky") present on the day of the FA Dec 28, 2017

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