Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Sugarloaf, West Face

Back in Black T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Crack Face T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cry Mary T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Espresso S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fat Merchant Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Ghost in the Machine T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Grand Delusion T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Hanging by a Thread S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Happy Face T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hyperspace T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Macrel Sky T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Man Who Fell to Earth, The T,S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Northern Lights T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Only the Young Die Brave T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pan Dulce T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Podium, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Pony Express T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slippy Liam S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Sugar Daddy S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
TM's Deviation T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Twist and Shout T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Under the Spreading Atrophy T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
West Chimney T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 165 ft
FA: R. Harrison, J. Smith, 1977.
Page Views: 3,759 total, 28/month
Shared By: Blitzo on Oct 19, 2006
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


41 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Way up left on the West Face, climb a thin crack and fragile flake to a ledge. Turn an overhang on the right and follow knobs.

Protection

Pro to 1.5".

Photos

mpech  
quite fun, wish it was longer. the flake is solid and the gear is good, i don't know what people are talking about. Jun 1, 2017
fivefun
 
fivefun  
 
There is no longer a fixed pin though there always seems to be some fixed gear. Apr 6, 2017
Colin Brochard
San Francisco
  5.10b PG13
Colin Brochard   San Francisco
  5.10b PG13
Great climbing, I thought the flake was a bit spooky and fragile. I opted not to put a whole lot of gear behind it. One green camelot in the first jug undercling, then a bit of a runout through the traverse up and right. Spooky for a heavy guy like me feeling that flake flex... I don't think gear would hold behind that flake after teh crux.... PG-13! Who's with me? Jan 19, 2015
Really, really fun. Bring small to medium nuts for the vertical part and small cams for the traverse. Apr 15, 2012
Blitzo
 
Blitzo  
 
A swell climb! Aug 24, 2010
Joseph Myers  
 
Hyperspace is a wonderful thin crack to an undercling where stamina and collected nerves will see you through to the anchors after a traverse back left. Apr 3, 2008
caughtinside
Oakland CA
 
caughtinside   Oakland CA
 
small gear up high on this one, green and blue alien. Also, when the crack starts traversing right, you can step high and clip a fixed pin. The party that did this ahead of us told us to watch out for the rope getting caught in the flake. not extending your cams after you clip a looong sling on the pin achieves this. Jan 22, 2007