Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

Ghost in the Machine

5.12a, Trad, 4 pitches,  Avg: 4 from 1 vote
FA: Ed Drummond
California > Lake Tahoe > Highway 50 Corr… > Sugarloaf Area > Sugarloaf > W Face

Description

Start up a left angling crack near the south face and gain the arete. Steep well protected climbing leads to a short traverse right to the anchors. Pitch two starts out strong but quickly mellows out on holes and pockets up a steep face to slab. Pitch three climbs a steep corner with splitter cracks, over a bulge and up some wondering runnout face with big holds. The last pitch starts out strong and stays physical with little rests until you make a long traverse out left. Double rope technique is suggested to minimize rope drag. Gain the arete and some steep physical technical moves. Pull over a bulge and up easier face to the top.

Location

Starts on a horizontal crack on the southwest side of Sugarloaf.

Protection

Draws. Cams to 1"

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

"The Ghost In The Machine".<br> Photo by Blitzo.
[Hide Photo] "The Ghost In The Machine". Photo by Blitzo.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Aidan Maguire
Placerville, CA
[Hide Comment] A big undertaking to lead it all. A great 3rd pitch variation is to climb up the obvious crack to the Blind Faith roof, out the roof and then the run out 10.c knob slinging to anchor. 1st pitch was retroed with bolts added by unknown without permission. 4th pitch had starting anchor placed (to replace old 3 pin belay) and 1 bolt added at end of left traverse with FA E Drummond's permission. 4th pitch really should be on doubles and is still very exposed and heady though 11+ with modern rubber.
Probably the hardest multipitch climb in the Tahoe area Dec 7, 2017
Evan Wisheropp
[Hide Comment] What is the difficulty and quality of the first pitch? I was thinking about doing this with the first two pitches of Sugar Daddy, which looked phenomenal when I rapped the wall. SD is 11c and 12a right? The roof crack variation on P3 looked incredible from the rappel. I couldn’t imagine doing it any other way, except the 25’ runout above the roof looked very spooky! Dec 27, 2018
Salamanizer Ski
Off the Grid…
  5.12a
[Hide Comment] Evan, the first pitch is good. Second pitch which goes to the anchor just below the roof is really good slab climbing. Sugar Daddy is a techy, hard and sharp route. Its good but very sustained. It has spit off quite a few "confident" 5.11 climbers. The second pitch is noticeably harder. I felt it was more 5.12c/d range when I did it years ago. Very techy, sharp and big moves. Probably not .12+, just different so feels harder for the onsight.
The roof, (3rd pitch) is good and the runout above is quite manageable. Nothing really to fear there. The fourth (last) pitch is a doosey. Very techy from the start, then a hairball traverse which is actually quite safe, just exposed and thin. The end of the pitch is... unique. I've done it a couple times and always felt solid. But it definitely makes you think.

One of the best multi pitch routes in Tahoe for sure. Don't be discouraged and freak yourself out. It's not a death route. Pretty moderate really. Dec 28, 2018
Evan Wisheropp
[Hide Comment] Wow, that’s great information. I am recovering from a broken elbow and wrist and my strength and flexibility is unpredictable right now so I decided to hold off this time. Hopefully next time I’ll be healed enough to give it a go! It really looks phenomenal. I wish I had looked closer at the second pitch of Sugar Daddy Dec 29, 2018