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Routes in Fairview Dome

Arsonist, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Captain Fairview T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Fairest of All T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Fairly Easy T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Fairview Heights T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Fiddler on the Roof T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Great Pumpkin T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Heart of Stone T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Inverted Staircase T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
La Bella Luna T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Lizard Lieback T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lucky Streaks T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Lyme Line T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Magical Mystery Tour T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Mr Toads Wild Ride T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Night Shift T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Plastic Exploding Inevitable T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b A4 R
Regular Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Retrospective T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Roseanne T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Sorcerer's Apprentice T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Unh-Huh T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Type: Trad, Sport, 500 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Tobin Sorensen, Mike Graham 7/73
Page Views: 4,433 total, 44/month
Shared By: Nick Stayner on Aug 6, 2009
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

Outstanding low-angle knob climbing. Quite runout, but solid feeling. Very worth doing, especially on your way down after a larger Fairview route.
P1- Wander your way up a small right-facing corner, placing a couple of small pieces, and eventually pull into the large black streak and begin climbing in a "sea of knobs", clipping one or two bolts along the way. End at a 2-bolt anchor that looks like it'll be jingus but actually has one good bolt. 5.7, 70m.
P2- Continue climbing up the amazing knobs in the black streak, clipping 2 bolts. End at a 2 bolt anchor. 5.8
P3- Climb knobs on an unprotected ever slabbing face to the top. 5.4

Location

The largest black streak on the west face. Encountered after walking a ways right from the Great Pumpkin.

Protection

Some medium gear for the first pitch corner, then draws.

Photos

mpech  
Mellow and secure knob-pulling on run out.

P1- ~60M. 2 bolts and gear to a bolted belay. The first bolt is an ancient 1/4-incher. Other bolts are good. 5.7ish . This pitch felt more heads-up than the second one...
P2- ~180feet. Follow the path of least resistance up the black streak. 2 bolts + a shitty knob-tie off to a bolt anchor. bolts are good. You are pretty much always on big knobs for hands and feet, so it didn't feel that crazy.

P3 ~100 feet; 5.easy climbing (no pro) to a bolt anchor.

Rack: singles from green alien to #3. A couple draws and slings. Jun 29, 2015
Anders
Berkeley
Anders   Berkeley
Could someone but another bolt or two on this thing!?!? Definitely agree with the X rating. Proceed with caution. Jul 3, 2014
Bill Lawry
New Mexico
  5.8 R
Bill Lawry   New Mexico
  5.8 R
My partner and I aren't ones to climb such "Tuolumne R" routes. And we wouldn't have climbed this one except for a hysterical mistake in gathering beta - had a DIFFERENT route's comments which spoke of lots of pro and to bring a 4 inch piece to protect the bulge - NOT! Had about four times as much of a rack as was "needed".

Timbo Stillinger's comment is worthy to consider. Aug 3, 2013
Timbo Stillinger
  5.8 R
Timbo Stillinger  
  5.8 R
"A little runout but worth climbing in a sea of knobs"

My humble experience on P2 from a "5.10" trad climber:

Pitch two is the money pitch. Steep enough to require care and technical precision, but just slabby enough to guarantee a full skid if you pop.... Very thought provoking. 170feet, continuos 5.8 knob climbing, and only two bolts both with 80+ foot run outs after each into vast 5.8 knob land; "a sea of knobs". I led up half the second pitch, girth hitched a knob, moved up a few feet and my sling just slides right off the knob... I made the mistake of looking down at the 60 feet of grit 3 sandpaper between me and the bolt and the next 60 feet of sharp knobs below that. My mental duct-tape was gone and I humbly, carefully, and frighteningly down climbed back to the belay and let my partner take the reigns. He floated up the pitch.

You should give it a look the next time your there, its a mental masterpiece. Jul 22, 2013
Nick Stayner
Wymont Kingdom
 
Nick Stayner   Wymont Kingdom
 
Benjamin- it's an unprotected face that becomes slabbier and slabbier... obviously :).

Toby- Rs and Xs become hard to distinguish in Tuolumne. I find it really surprising that a self-admitted climber not "well-versed in the way of climbing on nubs" would attempt this route! Good on you for pulling it off.
There are plenty of better protected Meadows routes to learn these skills on. Head to Low Profile Dome and check out Golfer's Route and Darth Vader's Revenge. Also check out the climbs on the left side Medlicott (Excellent, Smithers and the other one nearby whose name escapes me) are better protected intros. Sorry if my description of this route mislead you at all. Oct 24, 2012
Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
Benjamin Chapman   Small Town, USA
Nick....what is an unprotected ever slabbing face? Oct 15, 2012
Toby Butterfield
Portland, OR
5.8 X
Toby Butterfield   Portland, OR
5.8 X
I just about shat myself watching my partner lead this in one of my first few days at Tuolumne. I realize that Tuolumne is known for its runouts but to give this route anything other than X is misleading. There are a few gear placements on the first pitch, but you're still facing 50+ feet of climbing where a fall would mean certain death.

For those of you who (unlike me) are well-versed in the way of climbing on nubs I'm sure the climbing is mellow. But the protection definitely deserves an X. Feb 6, 2012
Bryan G
Yosemite
Bryan G   Yosemite
If you're looking for mellow but runout knob climbing, then this is the route for you. The bolts are good.

Viewed from below the route appears to follow a prominent black streak. Yet looking down on the same pitch from above, it suddenly appears as a white streak. It's magical and mysterious... Oct 3, 2011