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Routes in West Face
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Great Pumpkin T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Heart of Stone T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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La Bella Luna T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Lucky Streaks T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Magical Mystery Tour T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Mithrandir T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Mr. Burk T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R |
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Night Shift T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Plastic Exploding Inevitable T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b A4 R |
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Retrospective T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R |
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Roseanne T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Sorcerer's Apprentice T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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Twinkletoes T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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Unh-Huh T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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What Would Jeff Do T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Trad, 850 ft (258 m), 5 pitches |
| FA: | Brandon Adams, Danielle Shefet, 2018 |
| Page Views: | 1,691 total · 24/month |
| Shared By: | Brandon Adams on Aug 7, 2018 |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations.
Details
Please visit climbingyosemite.com/ and nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the latest information on visiting Yosemite, including permits, regulations, and closure information.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
Pitch 1: 5.10a, 200 feet. Warmup pitch and headgame wellness check. To begin, follow two bolts and juggy knobs over a 5.9 bulge. Trend up and left to features that accept gear. Climb up to a stance then up nice knobs past 2 bolts. Another thinner feature above will accept a micronut and protect the moves up and right to another stance and bolt. A 2 bolt anchor equipped with rings is ten feet above that.
Pitch 2: 5.10c, 175 feet. Climb up and left to the obvious rightward trending crack system. Climb it until a fixed pin is reached, then break out onto the face to the left, reach juggy knobs and climb to a good stance above. Climb the bolt protected 10c flake and knobby face. The flake is hollow and detached but solid to climb on.
Pitch 3: 5.11a, 130 feet. Stellar! Climb the easy feature up and left towards the beautiful orange bulge. Clip three bolts while working through the awesome 11a sequence that leads to a right facing corner. Place gear in the top of the corner then climb the face to the left, straight up past another bolt to the anchor.
Pitch 4: 5.10a, 165 feet. Follow three bolts up and left over patina, knobs, and edges. Climb up, placing pro in the two shallow right facing systems. Ignore the old off-route bolt off to the right. Gain the knobs and 3 bolts that guide you up and left to an anchor below the corner/roof/arch.
Pitch 5: 5.9, 165 feet. Climb the right facing corner then step left to steep but good knobs and a bolt. Climb up and trend right over moderate terrain, placing gear in several overlaps as you go. Terrain is 5.7ish but knobs are more friable up here (unlike the generally stellar rock quality of the other pitches). Bolted anchor on stance marks the route's summit.
Great route with some stellar climbing.
All anchors are on good stances or ledges.
A legit Fairview route, expect 5.9R climbing and headgame elements to every pitch. However, all harder climbing is protected.
All hardware is modern, stainless, and bomber.
Enjoy!
Pitch 2: 5.10c, 175 feet. Climb up and left to the obvious rightward trending crack system. Climb it until a fixed pin is reached, then break out onto the face to the left, reach juggy knobs and climb to a good stance above. Climb the bolt protected 10c flake and knobby face. The flake is hollow and detached but solid to climb on.
Pitch 3: 5.11a, 130 feet. Stellar! Climb the easy feature up and left towards the beautiful orange bulge. Clip three bolts while working through the awesome 11a sequence that leads to a right facing corner. Place gear in the top of the corner then climb the face to the left, straight up past another bolt to the anchor.
Pitch 4: 5.10a, 165 feet. Follow three bolts up and left over patina, knobs, and edges. Climb up, placing pro in the two shallow right facing systems. Ignore the old off-route bolt off to the right. Gain the knobs and 3 bolts that guide you up and left to an anchor below the corner/roof/arch.
Pitch 5: 5.9, 165 feet. Climb the right facing corner then step left to steep but good knobs and a bolt. Climb up and trend right over moderate terrain, placing gear in several overlaps as you go. Terrain is 5.7ish but knobs are more friable up here (unlike the generally stellar rock quality of the other pitches). Bolted anchor on stance marks the route's summit.
Great route with some stellar climbing.
All anchors are on good stances or ledges.
A legit Fairview route, expect 5.9R climbing and headgame elements to every pitch. However, all harder climbing is protected.
All hardware is modern, stainless, and bomber.
Enjoy!
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