Avg: 3.5 from 17 votes
|Type:||Trad, 600 ft (182 m), 4 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||Alan Bartlett and James Wilson, early 80's|
|Page Views:||6,439 total · 39/month|
|Shared By:||Russ Walling on Sep 13, 2007|
|Admins:||Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15.
Always check the Yosemite website Peregrine Closure page at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warning due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Pitch #1: Motor up the easy corner and lob in a few cams as you go. There is a bolt at the top of the corner before you start moving right and into a few cruxy moves. Watch out for rope drag. 3 bolts total on the pitch, then a 4 bolt (two that are good) belay.
Pitch #2: Undercling up an left out of the station on some very loose plates. Clip the bolt and begin to move right and up and across the polish. You can stuff some small gear into a flake after you move right and climb up a bit. Eventually get to the right facing corner where you can lob in a nut or some cams. Belay is at the top of this corner. 3 bolts on the pitch, then a 2 bolt belay.
Pitch #3: Run it out straight up to a bolt and then continue moaning upward and slightly right. If you are lucky you will find a small flake that takes 3/4" to 1" cams. Continue straight up from this flake until you either hit a rusted 1/4" bolt or the anchor. 1 good bolt, and 1 bad hidden bolt on the pitch, then a 2 bolt belay.
Pitch #4: Go up toward the big roof and maybe plug in a 1.5" cam as you turn the corner. Exit the roofs on the right via a 5.4 ramp and look for a fixed pin about half way out. Run the rope all the way back onto the slab to belay. Overlaps up there will take small to medium cams for an anchor. No bolts, set an anchor on top.
few long slings
1 ea cams, .5" to 2.5"