All Locations > California > Yosemite NP > Tuolumne Meadows > Fairview Dome > W Face

Mithrandir

Name: Mithrandir
Rating: 3.4

5.11b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British R

Routes in West Face

L › R R › L A › Z

	Great Pumpkin T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
	Heart of Stone T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
	La Bella Luna T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
	Lucky Streaks T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Magical Mystery Tour T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
	Mithrandir T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
	Mr. Burk T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
	Night Shift T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
	Plastic Exploding Inevitable T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b A4 R
	Retrospective T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
	Roseanne T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
	Sorcerer's Apprentice T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
	Twinkletoes T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
	Unh-Huh T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
	What Would Jeff Do T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Order Wrong? Sort Routes

Type:	Trad, 800 ft (242 m), 6 pitches
GPS:	37.87012, -119.40627
FA:	unknown
Page Views:	2,068 total · 28/month
Shared By:	Brandon Adams on Sep 5, 2020
Admins:	Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Salamanizer Ski Page Updates (admin only)

You & This Route

11 Opinions

Your To-Do List: ·

Your Star Rating:
Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change

Your Ticks:Add New Tick

-none-

Explore this route in 3D

Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations. Details

Please visit nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the latest information on visiting Yosemite, including permits, regulations, and closure information.

Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.

Description

This route is:
5.10- R
5.11- G

Shares pitches 1, 2, 3, and 6 with Sorcerer's Apprentice. This is a variation to that route.

I found and completed this old project while rebolting Sorcerer's Apprentice. Mithrandir is a bit less scary, as well as a bit more direct and sustained than the original route.

All hardware is 3/8" and stainless.

Pitch 1: 10a, 115'
Fun and well protected crack system. A bit grassy at the bottom.

Pitch 2: 10b, 130'
Continue up the good crack for another 30 feet, then traverse left to another crack. Tricky moves through a gold right facing corner, then traverse left again to another crack and the anchor.

Pitch 3: 11a, 115'
Follow the leftward crack to a bolt. Climb back down 10-15 feet, traverse left (11a) and back up to a pin, a bolt, and some 10- edging to the anchor.

Pitch 4: 5.9, 150'
5.7 knobs up and right with a knob tie off and a couple bolts for pro. Gain the ramp that brings you to a ledge and a bolt. Up and right to another left trending ramp. A short section of 5.9 guards the belay ledge.

Pitch 5: 5.11a, 115'
Edge and mantle past three bolts to gain the roof. Two more bolts protect fun climbing through steeper rock, then climb a left facing corner system. Natural anchor at good stance takes .5" to 2" cams. Sustained. Great pitch.

Pitch 6: 10b, 180'
Traverse right past a cool cave. A pin then three bolts protect more edging and slab climbing, then a right facing corner and easy terrain brings you to the top.

For what it's worth, of the 10 routes I've done on Fairview, Mithrandir is one of my favorites. It is one of my favorites in Tuolumne as a whole.