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Routes in Fairview Dome

Arsonist, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Captain Fairview T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Fairest of All T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Fairly Easy T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Fairview Heights T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Fiddler on the Roof T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Great Pumpkin T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Heart of Stone T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Inverted Staircase T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
La Bella Luna T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Lizard Lieback T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lucky Streaks T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Lyme Line T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Magical Mystery Tour T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Mr Toads Wild Ride T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Night Shift T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Plastic Exploding Inevitable T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b A4 R
Regular Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Retrospective T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Roseanne T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Sorcerer's Apprentice T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Unh-Huh T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Type: Trad, 700 ft, 7 pitches, Grade III
FA: Bob Kamps, Bud Couch, 7-1969.
Page Views: 5,434 total, 44/month
Shared By: Blitzo on Oct 13, 2007
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

This excellent route is to the right of "Roseanne". The climbing is mostly easy with some exciting run-outs and routefinding.

Climb easy face to a ledge (5.4).

Climb up past a short left facing corner, then past a bolt, then up and right to a belay (5.8).

Climb up to a 5.8 lieback, which leads to a belay.

A left facing corner leads to another ledge (5.7).

From the right end of the ledge, climb 5.8 to a left facing corner, which leads to a belay with two bolts.

A 5.8 pitch leads past two bolts to a belay from three bolts.

Another 5.8 pitch leads past one bolt to the walk off.

Protection

Standard rack.
Fat Dad
Los Angeles, CA
Fat Dad   Los Angeles, CA
Let me point out to those unfamiliar with So Cal climbing history. This route was put up by TWO face masters, Kamps and Bud '"Ivan" Couch, who put up Valhalla (.11a) at Suicide, the route one had to lead to become a Stonemaster. Jun 15, 2016
Mike Holley
Boone, NC
 
Mike Holley   Boone, NC
 
This route should be called the Great Jack O'Lantern because it certainly is a little spooky. Scariest point is looking up at it from the ground yet maintains the stress when your on it, requires a solid head and comfort on run out slab climbing. Easy climbing for its grade, yet most likely rated what it is due to the seriousness of the runouts. Type one, type two fun, you decide! Dec 5, 2015
Ed Henicle
Santa Rosa, CA
Ed Henicle   Santa Rosa, CA
Classic face climb. If you're a bold face climber, you'll love it. For me - well - I think there are 5.8+ moves WAY past your last bolt - very scary - my hats off to Kamps and anyone else who can lead those upper pitches. Sep 11, 2015
This route is a classic line by Mr. Kamps. It's runout...but if you climb well and have the head..go for it. Always fun. Jul 9, 2014
-robin-
  5.8
-robin-  
  5.8
What a spectacular route, every pitch offers a little spice and is consistently interesting. Easily one of my favorite routes at the grade! We did it in four pitches with a 70m. Mar 17, 2014
Can be climbed in 3 pitches with a 70m.

From bolted belay at the top of P1 you can rope stretch to the Bolted Belay at the top of the pitch that starts off the ledge with the tree. (link p2 & p3) Might need to use long slings for the bolt anchors to milk that extra foot of stretch out of the rope. Rope drag is not that bad, be sure to protect for the follower mantling onto the ledge. If they unclip from the tree rap before mantling and you have no pro until the bolt at the other end of the ledge, they face a nasty penji should they blow the mantle. Jul 22, 2013
trying hard
Sierra East Side
  5.8 R
trying hard   Sierra East Side
  5.8 R
How this route is rated so high baffles me. Supertopo guidebook talks about climbing immaculate perfect granite and so on regarding Great Pumpkin. This route offers far from that, highlighting a massive hollow flake that should not be protected with pro due to the unpredictability that it would blow off the wall, changing rock quality top to bottom and and extreme run outs. I would gladly walk off fairview for any other climb. Jul 18, 2012
snowhazed
Oakland, Ca
 
snowhazed   Oakland, Ca
 
Link it up in 4 pitches w/ a 60m. Aug 19, 2009