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Routes in Fairview Dome

Arsonist, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Captain Fairview T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Fairest of All T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Fairly Easy T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Fairview Heights T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Fiddler on the Roof T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Great Pumpkin T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Heart of Stone T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Inverted Staircase T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
La Bella Luna T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Lizard Lieback T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lucky Streaks T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Lyme Line T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Magical Mystery Tour T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Mr Toads Wild Ride T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Night Shift T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Plastic Exploding Inevitable T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b A4 R
Regular Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Retrospective T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Roseanne T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Sorcerer's Apprentice T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Unh-Huh T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Type: Trad, 900 ft, 6 pitches
FA: Mikey Schaefer and Nils Davis '05
Page Views: 612 total · 23/month
Shared By: Mikey Schaefer on Nov 30, 2015
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

Route was established ground-up during the summer of '05. This is definitely an old school style meadows route. The bolts aren't exactly where you want or need them but where they could be drilled. Though the hardest move is protected fairly well. The second pitch is probably the mental crux with only 5 bolts in 200' of sustained 5.10 climbing with one 10+ move way above a bolt. This pitch might be tad longer than 200' so be ready to simul a small bit or bring a longer rope.

Pitch 4 shares some climbing with an unreported route, Quasimodo, established by Tom Carter back in the day. Really fun and exposed pitch. Pitch 5 holds the hardest technical bits and require solid footwork and mantling ability. The end of this pitch pulls a really cool roof that Fairest of All traverses underneath. This actually makes a much better exit for Fairest of All as it avoids the funky and long traverse out right. Hemispheres could also be exited this way.

Overall this is high quality and extremely engaging route on excellent rock. Classic Fairview Dome.

Possibly only repeated once by Bob Jensen and Sean Kriletich less than a week after the FA.

Location

Starts right of the big Plastic Exploding corner and left of Hemispheres.

Protection

Sparsely bolted.

2x Green C3 to .75 Camalot
1x Purple C3, #1, #2 Camalot

Numerous long slings

Photos

andjoely
Menlo Park, CA
 
andjoely   Menlo Park, CA
 
The pin on P1 fell out when we clipped it so is no longer there. There is gear about 6 feet lower so it should not be an issue. The crux felt hard for the grade. One of the potato chip-like flakes I used at the crux crumbled a little when I stood up on it so the route might be a tiny bit harder now. The steep climbing after the crux was amazing as was most of the route. Awesome climbing. Sep 11, 2016
Mikey Schaefer
Terrebonne, OR
 
Mikey Schaefer   Terrebonne, OR
 
Unfortunately I don't think a better topo will make this route any easier. (not to mention the topo I posted is actually pretty good for fairview dome...)

And I'm not sure this route has seen a 3rd ascent yet. I haven't been hanging around TM lately but I think I would've heard if someone has gone up there. Might be worth swinging by the TM sar site and ask around there. Jul 28, 2016
tarallo  
Hi ,
can I have more details about the route?
A better topo?
thanks Jul 28, 2016
bob jensen  
 
If you like an old school route with new school hardware, this is it!! Seriously, Retrospective is fantastic Fairview climbing. I'm sure glad I lost the toss (won!!) for who lead pitch two. Immaculate climbing with some serious runouts when it counts, but it's only 5.10 right? The Iceman had a bit to with that I believe. Mikey? The crux is oh so thin. For me, it was a clip the bolts while sliding scenario. Big thumbs up. One of the best. Nice work y'all. Jan 19, 2016

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