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Routes in Fairview Dome

Arsonist, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Captain Fairview T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Fairest of All T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Fairly Easy T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Fairview Heights T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Fiddler on the Roof T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Great Pumpkin T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Heart of Stone T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Inverted Staircase T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
La Bella Luna T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Lizard Lieback T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lucky Streaks T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Lyme Line T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Magical Mystery Tour T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Mr Toads Wild Ride T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Night Shift T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Plastic Exploding Inevitable T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b A4 R
Regular Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Retrospective T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Roseanne T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Sorcerer's Apprentice T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Unh-Huh T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Type: Trad, 900 ft, 8 pitches
FA: Mike Scaffer et al., 8/05
Page Views: 2,644 total, 26/month
Shared By: Brad Gobright on Jul 4, 2009
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

Wow, this thing is hard. My big toes still hurt three days later and I’m not sure if I ever want to get back up there. The line is a little contrived but none the less it’s still a good rock climb and you’ll have a fun time trying to move off those dime edges.

For the first three pitches the route follows the large black steak between the Regular Route and Heart of Stone. On pitch four traverse right along the dike for about twenty feet and head up the thin golden plates (these are your hand and foot holds). Pitch five is the crux, much similar to pitch four just harder. Three more pitches of easier climbing bring you to the large U-shaped ledge. From there you can rappel (two rope required) or climb two easy pitches to the top of the dome.

You won’t get lost on this climb because it’s heavily bolted almost the whole way. The last two pitches wander a little but there’s enough bolts to keep you on track, bring some 1/4 to 1 inch cams for these pitches.

Location

Between the Regular Route and Heart of Stone.

Protection

12 Draws, 1/4 to 1 inch cams

Photos

Mikey Schaefer
Terrebonne, OR
Mikey Schaefer   Terrebonne, OR
Katie is right. There is a missing bolt for the pitch 7 anchor. What I did is just climb up to the first bolt on p8, clip that one and then lower to the previous bolt and built the anchor with the two clipped bolts. But there is actually an anchor in the U-shaped bowl. it's just hard to find. I believe it is two cold shuts. I'm 100% positive about this as I've rapped from those anchors a few times. Dec 8, 2015
Katiebird  
 
The smallest of the small edges won't break - only the more friable looking ones will - they can be avoided at most times. Pitch 7 doesn't have a an anchor - the last bolt, bolt 6 was originally to be the anchor station - if one goes left about 50 feet there is small corner where a gear anchor can be built with a .5and a .4. There is also no anchor at the end of pitch 8 in the U-shaped bowl. Jul 25, 2014
Christina Freschl
Berkeley, California
 
Christina Freschl   Berkeley, California
 
Great route. Well protected, but a bit crusty. Small edges are easy to break off, be careful. We felt that the 11+ pitch was as hard as the 12 pitch. The last two pitches are very traversing and confusing. We were unable to find the last two bolted anchors that were drawn on the Falcon topo. Jul 22, 2014
I thought the first 3 pitches were great. Bailed on the 4th, got tired of falling, but it also seemed good. I look forward to getting back on it with a rope gun. Jul 6, 2014
Brad Gobright
1994 Honda Civic
 
Brad Gobright   1994 Honda Civic
 
The guide book gives this route a 5.12 rating but if could be harder due to fragile edges (holds) breaking and crumbling. My partner and I broke a few. Jul 5, 2009