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Routes in Fairview Dome

Arsonist, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Captain Fairview T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Fairest of All T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Fairly Easy T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Fairview Heights T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Fiddler on the Roof T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Great Pumpkin T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Heart of Stone T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Inverted Staircase T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
La Bella Luna T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Lizard Lieback T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lucky Streaks T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Lyme Line T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Magical Mystery Tour T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Mr Toads Wild Ride T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Night Shift T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Plastic Exploding Inevitable T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b A4 R
Regular Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Retrospective T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Roseanne T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Sorcerer's Apprentice T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Unh-Huh T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Type: Trad, 800 ft, 7 pitches, Grade V
FA: Vern Clevenger, Tom Carter, Alan Bard, and Bob Harrington, July 1978
Page Views: 4,373 total, 43/month
Shared By: Monica Jones on Aug 30, 2009
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

The crux is a section of 5.11A slab that's a little run out, but over a shiny, retrofitted bolt. You should link the 5.8 and 5.9 runout pitches because there's really isn't any protection, save for a couple quarter inch rusty bolts and occassional pro so it's easy to link them. All the other pitches are pretty well protected but you should be comfortable running it out over easier terrain.

Location

It starts to the left of lucky streaks on a 5.10A easily protected crack. Easy 5th class at the top to join the walk off of Lucky Streaks.

Protection

Natural pro with a shiny bolt at the crux and a couple old quarter inchers
Corey Flynn
USA
 
Corey Flynn   USA
 
ive lead every pitch on this thing twice and for me the scariest/hardest part was the pitch after the sea of knobs where you have to make a "5.8" mantle a good 12 feet out of an old quarter inch bolt on some flakey dime edge terrain above a ledge. the first time i attempted this route it was my first route on the fairview dome and my friend slipped off the 5.8 move and twisted his ankle badly on the ledge. the old bolt held but we were forced to make a lengthly retreat with a single 70m rope. after that trip it was hard to find somebody to trade leads with me so i just got friends to belay me. my first time leading the pitch after the sea of knobs it felt really easy but a summer later i went back to do it again and on "the move" i broke my hand handhold and was barely able to press thru. to me the entire route comes down to this three feet of climbing but otherwise this climb is baller. link the sea of knobs pitches and bring a doob or beer for the cave belay before the last pitch Mar 19, 2015
tarallo  
climbed the route in August i linked the two pitches of the sea of knobs (70m rope) as suggested. on the second pitch of the sea i missed the bolt ( i climbed slightly on the left from the belay 5.8 for me) showed on the topo,30 /35 m of runout, and arrived at the two bolts.the two bolts were linked by a old sling and as soon as i touched the sling one bolt came off, so i decided to climb back as i did not want to do the move to go left that seemed hard protected by only one 1/4 inch rusty bolt.
i returned this october with a new bolt and i did the same thing as the previous time,but this time on the second pitch of the sea i climbed a little bit on the right from the belay and i found the bolt.climbing this way i found the pitch harder than the previous time 5.9(5.8) as indicated on the topo.
i replaced the old bolt with a new 8mm inox fix.
my feeling was right the move was hard ,no way 5.9 !!,for me 10b !! at least .
the following pitch was very nice and we finished the route,the last pitch not so hard as the previuos pitch.
at the end great route the 11a not so hard.
p.s.
i was not able to use the hole of the missing bolt as inside there was half of the broken bolt.
ciao and goog climbing Oct 17, 2014
Russ Walling
www.FishProducts.com
Russ Walling   www.FishProducts.com
The crux is a section of 5.11A slab that's a little run out, but over a shiny, retrofitted bolt

Retrofitted as in added where no bolt existed before.... or as a replacement for the original bolt in the same position??? Aug 19, 2014
Karsten Duncan
Sacramento, CA
Karsten Duncan   Sacramento, CA
Caught and Albers should pass that recommendation onto Don Reid. Aug 18, 2014
-robin-  
FA: Vern Clevenger, Tom Carter, Alan Bard, and Bob Harrington, July 1978 Mar 17, 2014
TeleRoss
San Diego, CA
  5.11a R
TeleRoss   San Diego, CA
  5.11a R
excellent route with thought provoking, varied climbing. Really outstanding. Not grade V tho. More like III-III+ Jun 28, 2013
J. Albers
Colorado
J. Albers   Colorado
Easy Monica. I think Caught has a legitimate point, i.e. the whole point of entering a route into the MP database is so that folks can get the information that they need to climb the route....and that type of information is not included in your description. Because when you add a route it prevents others from doing so, I think it behooves the route entering party to do a complete job. Cheers. Mar 27, 2012
Luke Stefurak
Seattle, WA
Luke Stefurak   Seattle, WA
Mr. Kamps info: redrocksguidebook.com/forum… Nov 30, 2011
Fat Dad
Los Angeles, CA
Fat Dad   Los Angeles, CA
There's ample description of this route elsewhere. She's just adding some info the typos don't provide. That's for including this route. Now, if someone will just add some info on Mr. Kamps (.11b). Oct 14, 2011
Monica Jones
Bishop, CA
 
Monica Jones   Bishop, CA
 
Feel free to add to it. Jul 30, 2011
caughtinside
Oakland CA
caughtinside   Oakland CA
Pretty thin description of an 800' route. Apr 18, 2011