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Routes in West Face

Great Pumpkin T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Heart of Stone T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
La Bella Luna T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Lucky Streaks T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Magical Mystery Tour T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Mr. Burk T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Night Shift T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Plastic Exploding Inevitable T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b A4 R
Retrospective T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Roseanne T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Sorcerer's Apprentice T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Twinkletoes T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Unh-Huh T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
What Would Jeff Do T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
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Type: Trad, 600 ft, 6 pitches, Grade III
FA: Verne and Margaret Clevenger, Claude Fiddler 7/75
Page Views: 240 total · 6/month
Shared By: Bruce Hildenbrand on Jul 20, 2015
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details


This is another in the long line of runout, moderately protected Tuolumne face routes. Note that the 5.9+ face move on pitch 5 is poorly protected for the second who could face a huge swing out into space if they fell off(I witnessed this and it wasn't pretty!)


The route is located just uphill from the start of Lucky Streaks(they share the same belay ledge for pitch 1). You are ultimately shooting for the huge roof above and right which you will reach on pitch 5.

There are only three bolts on this route; one on pitch 2, one on pitch 3 and one on pitch 5 so you are basically linking small features (cracks and arches) to get reasonable pro.

A good landmark to head for at the start is the right facing arch that is midway up the third pitch. The arch can be climbed directly at 5.10a or a face traverse(5.9+) below it. The next landmark to shoot for is a small ledge with a small tree on it at the end of pitch 4. From there the notorious pitch 5 climbs up and right past a bolt and through the huge roof which goes at 5.3.

One more easy pitch of scrambling gets you to the descent slopes where you head down and right to get off the dome.


There are three bolts on this climb. Bring a standard rack of stoppers and aliens and cams to 3".


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