Type: Trad, 650 ft, 6 pitches
FA: Kamps & Higgins - 1967
Page Views: 21,680 total · 128/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Jul 10, 2006
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details

Description

This is a great and sustained route -- somewhat tough on the toes, but the crux is easy for the grade. All-in-all the rock isn't quite as good as the Regular Route, but it is much steeper -- it's a toss up as to which one is the better route.

P1: Begin by a large block that is leaning against the dome. Head up on somewhat low angle terrain with limited opportunities for pro, do a tough step left, then contour up and right and belay on an obvious platform ledge below the beginning of a long left-facing corner system. 5.9.

P2: Continue up on 5.9 climbing to another ledge below a thin finger crack.

P3: Climb up the finger crack past a crux move, and then onwards up a steep, left-leaning crack to a good belay. 5.10d. I believe there is a 5.9 variation out right near the start that avoids the hard climbing but that it is of lesser quality.

P4: Continue up the steep corner using the crack and knobs. 5.9.

P5: Perform a somewhat scary underclinging traverse left and around to another corner system and up this to a belay. 5.9.

P6: Continue in the same system. The climbing eases with the angle. 5.8

Protection

Standard rack.

Photos