Avg: 3.8 from 40 votes
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 12000 ft (3636 m), 5 pitches, Grade VI|
|Page Views:||52,025 total · 448/month|
|Shared By:||B L on Mar 18, 2011 with 1 Suggestions|
|Admins:||Chris Owen, Lurker, M Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
The rock is mostly excellent, with a couple loose spots in between, better than on the Palisades Thunderbolt to Sill part.
Getting down from Darwin is the most dangerous and difficult part of the climb, with either a manky rappel or a 5.9 downclimb. (edit: People in the comments say there is a 5.6 way, we rapped)
The number of pitches you belay greatly depends on how comfortable you are soloing 5th class. Simulclimbing is not a good idea.
The Mendel headwall is 5.6, a very nice crack is the crux. The most challenging section from both a technical and route finding point of view is the traverse between Darwin and 13,332. There's an obvious manky 5.6-5.9 down climb right below the summit block, which you can avoid with a short rappel. From here depending on which way you go you will encounter down climbing/traversing up to 5.9. There are a number of ways to go up Huxley, but most people have encountered climbing up to 5.7 or 5.8.
Water is a problem, unless you go early in the season, which is recommended if the snow year was not big. The closest water source is a lake a few hundred feet below Haeckel.
Good bivy spots are not abundant. The top of Darwin is excellent, and around Haeckel there are a few. After the descent from Darwin you can drop down the ridge a little, and find reasonable spots.
For more detailed information refer to the Croft Guidebook, the Good, the Great and the Awesome.