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Areas in Eagle Creek Canyon

90 Foot Wall 12 / 0 / 20 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 20
Eagle Creek Canyon Ice Climbs 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
Eagle Creek Cliff 7 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7
Eagle Falls Trailhead 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
Eagle Lake Buttress 11 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 11
Eagle Lake Cliff 20 / 5 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 25
Eagle's Nest 5 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
Emerald Point 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Mayhem Cove 1 / 21 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 22
Punk Rock 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Smoke Rock 2 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Stomach, The 1 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2

Description

This area, located on the west side of Lake Tahoe just west of Emerald Bay offers incredible climbing of all varieties and grades with magnificent views of the nearby lake. Most of the climbing in Eagle Creek is on featured granite, which will cook in the sun on a hot day. It is possible to climb many of the rocks year round when they are dry.

The climbing areas here (except maybe the Mayhem Cove vicinity) are almost entirely inside the Tahoe Basin Management Unit side of the Desolation Wilderness, so double-check the latest official information at their website. As always, the wilderness ethic forbids power drills, and prefers the cleanest climbing possible. The trailhead has a self-registration box and sign that you should use before entering; at prime time there's often a friendly ranger there in person. You can camp anywhere you want in the Canyon, but you need a wilderness permit first. Overnight permits can be obtained in person 20 minutes south along highway 89 in South Lake Tahoe, or with advance planning through the wilderness website.

Getting There

From the South: Head North along highway 89 out of South Lake Tahoe towards Homewood and Tahoe City. Travel about 10 miles to the Eagle Falls Trailhead, which is located alongside the large Emerald Bay. Park along the road for free, or park in the Eagle Lake lot for $2. The walk from the road to the parking lot takes about 45 seconds.

From the North: Travel south on Highway 89 out of Tahoe City towards Homewood and South Lake Tahoe. Travel about 20 miles to the Eagle Falls Trailhead.

WARNING! Do not park on the bridge right above Eagle Falls. It is a $35 ticket for parking on the "sidewalk." There are no signs warning of the violation.

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Classic Climbing Routes at Eagle Creek Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 54
Holdless Horror
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 60
Strontium 90
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 26
Unkown Chimney
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 54
Car Jacker
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 55
Fallout
Trad, TR
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 91
Space Truckin'
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 40
Diamond
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 36
Lightning Bolt
TR
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 45
Buster Brown
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 65
Seams to Me
Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 44
Quest for Glory
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 20
Skullduggery
Trad
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
 32
Space Walk
Trad
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 20
Huntin' Gator
Sport
5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
 8
Cajun Hell
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Holdless Horror 90 Foot Wall
 54
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, TR
Strontium 90 90 Foot Wall
 60
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Unkown Chimney Eagle Lake Cliff
 26
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Car Jacker Mayhem Cove
 54
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Fallout 90 Foot Wall
 55
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR
Space Truckin' Eagle Lake Cliff
 91
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Diamond Mayhem Cove
 40
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Lightning Bolt 90 Foot Wall
 36
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b TR
Buster Brown Eagle Lake Cliff
 45
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Seams to Me Eagle Lake Cliff
 65
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Quest for Glory Eagle Lake Cliff
 44
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
Skullduggery Mayhem Cove
 20
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Space Walk Eagle Lake Cliff
 32
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a Trad
Huntin' Gator Mayhem Cove
 20
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Cajun Hell Mayhem Cove
 8
5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Eagle Creek Canyon »

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