Type: Trad, 150 ft
FA: Ron Skelton, Mark Tuttle (5/89)
Page Views: 1,178 total · 31/month
Shared By: EJoe on Nov 22, 2015
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details

Description

The Reid guide has you solo far right up a short 5.8 hand crack into a 4th class romp to a giant ledge, then walk left along this ledge to start the dihedral. You can alternatively climb the .10b crux section of Boneheads to gain said ledge. I personally think going direct via the Boneheads start is better, as it adds another technical element to the already diverse style of climbing required for Rocky Horror Show.

From the ledge, start with a hand crack to a small roof. The crack thins to sustained 5.10 fingers until about 2/3 of the way up. A short 5.11-ish section gets you to the first pairing of bolts which protects the route's physical crux. Top these 2 bolts and do a couple of .11 moves to a triplet of bolts. These 3 bolts protect the technical crux. Fire this section and don't botch the final mantle.

I recommend stretching your groin in preparation of the inevitable ninja stemming.

Location

The giant dihedral directly above the start of Boneheads.

Protection

Doubles from blue alien to BD .5, singles from BD .75 to 2. There are 5 bolts (8 if you do the direct start via Boneheads) to a 2-bolt rappel anchor. Optional small offset nuts or extra thin gear.

Photos

Travis H
SF, CA
 
Travis H   SF, CA
 
Two ropes are needed to get down from the anchor. A 70m gets you to the big ledge 25 feet up, but not to the ground. I placed a BD #3 on this route. This climb is classic! Do it. Nov 23, 2015
mpech  
a fun route-- lots of ninja stemming. It's nice to climb a route that isn't polished to death. Dec 29, 2016
Jon Appleberry
Yosemite, CA
 
Jon Appleberry   Yosemite, CA
 
I did it with a .2 x4 and two black totems, doubles of .3-.5, 2 #2's, 1 #4 for the little mini roof in the beginning, and 11 draws (1 alpine for extending the #4). Maybe you can find a spot for the .75 and #1 but I didnt. Also since there is a quick link on the crux bolt you can get down with a single 70 in 2 raps, you just have to be willing to hang on one bolt for a sec. I thought the first set of bolts was definitely the crux. Mega classic that should be done by every 5.12 climber! Jan 18, 2018