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Routes in Pat and Jack Pinnacle

Babble On T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Boneheads T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cat's Squirrel T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Chicken Fever T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Desperado S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Desperate Straights T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
G-Man T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
G-Man Extension (not Book'em, Dano) T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Gay Bob's to extension T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Gilligan's Chicken T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Golden Needles T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Headstrong S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Jack Pinnacle, Left T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Kiddie Corner T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Knob Job T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Knuckleheads S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Makayla's Climb T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Nine Lives T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Nurdle T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pat Pinnacle T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Polymastia T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rocky Horror Show T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sherrie's Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Skinheads S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Suds T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Super Slacker Highway, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Trough of Justice T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tube, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Underclingon S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unknown T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown (5.8?) S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 150 ft
FA: Ron Skelton, Mark Tuttle (5/89)
Page Views: 758 total, 31/month
Shared By: EJoe on Nov 22, 2015
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

The Reid guide has you solo far right up a short 5.8 hand crack into a 4th class romp to a giant ledge, then walk left along this ledge to start the dihedral. You can alternatively climb the .10b crux section of Boneheads to gain said ledge. I personally think going direct via the Boneheads start is better, as it adds another technical element to the already diverse style of climbing required for Rocky Horror Show.

From the ledge, start with a hand crack to a small roof. The crack thins to sustained 5.10 fingers until about 2/3 of the way up. A short 5.11-ish section gets you to the first pairing of bolts which protects the route's physical crux. Top these 2 bolts and do a couple of .11 moves to a triplet of bolts. These 3 bolts protect the technical crux. Fire this section and don't botch the final mantle.

I recommend stretching your groin in preparation of the inevitable ninja stemming.

Location

The giant dihedral directly above the start of Boneheads.

Protection

Doubles from blue alien to BD .5, singles from BD .75 to 2. There are 5 bolts (8 if you do the direct start via Boneheads) to a 2-bolt rappel anchor. Optional small offset nuts or extra thin gear.

Photos

mpech  
a fun route-- lots of ninja stemming. It's nice to climb a route that isn't polished to death. Dec 29, 2016
Travis H
SF, CA
 
Travis H   SF, CA
 
Two ropes are needed to get down from the anchor. A 70m gets you to the big ledge 25 feet up, but not to the ground. I placed a BD #3 on this route. This climb is classic! Do it. Nov 23, 2015