Explore this area in 3D
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Previous Next
Elevation: 4,917 ft 1,499 m
GPS: 40.6193, -111.789
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 2,332,347 total · 8,478/month
Shared By: Eric Jacobsen on May 6, 2003 · Updates
Admins: Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher
Page Updates (admin only)

Description Suggest change

Of the two Cottonwood canyons, BCC is the lesser-known, despite its amazing climbing. There are hundreds of routes on dozens of crags scattered throughout the length and on either side of the canyon.

Climbing is primarily on quartzite, which tends to be slippery and hard; however, the quartzite also offers numerous holds jutting out at all angles. Because protection may be more difficult in quartzite than in the granite of LCC, BCC has more sport routes than LCC, but the majority of BCC routes are trad climbs.

Some of the picnic areas have entrance fees.

Ice Climbing Suggest change

There are a handful of ice routes in Big Cottonwood. Almost all of them are on the north side of the canyon and receive a lot of sunlight so they don't often come in really fat.

When the lines do come in, however, it makes for some enjoyable climbing. Probably not recommended for beginners because the routes are mostly thin, but during a fat year one can find an occasional short climb with top rope potential.

BCC ice generally comes in late and leaves early.

Getting There

Suggest change
Big Cottonwood Canyon

climbs east out of Salt Lake City at about 7200 South. From the north, take the I-215 loop to Exit 6, the 6200 South exit.

Head east on Hwy 190, following signs to the ski areas of BCC (Solitude and Brighton). Turn left on Fort Union Blvd, which heads up into the canyon.

From the west, 7200 South becomes Fort Union. From the south, follow Wasatch Blvd and turn right on Fort Union.

1,041 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Big Cottonwood Canyon Change
Type:  to 
Quality:
Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Classic Climbing Routes at Big Cottonwood Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V6 7A
 45
● Orange Crush
Boulder
Brighton Area > Brighton Boulders > Millie Boulder
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 802
● Steorts' Ridge
Trad 3 pitches
Dead Snag
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 781
● Outside Corner
Trad 3 pitches
JHCOB Wall
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 264
● Eleventh Hour
Trad 4 pitches
Sundial
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 717
● Hollow Man
Sport
Challenge Buttress > N & W Faces
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 387
● Crescendo
Trad 4 pitches
JHCOB Wall
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 139
● High Dive
Trad 2 pitches
Glass Ocean & Environs
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 122
● Social Engineering
Trad
Dead Snag
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 486
● Goodro's Wall
Trad
Storm Mtn Picni… > Storm Mtn Island
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 140
● Eternal Flow
Sport 2 pitches
Lonely Challenge Area
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 420
● Black Monday
Sport
S-Curves > S-Curve - Lower
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 75
● Force of Nature
Trad
Dead Snag
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 23
● Gnarth Brooks Direct
Sport
Gnar Wall
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 33
● Karmic Whiplash
Sport
Dark Star Gully
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 21
● Cross-Eyed and Painless
Sport
Dogwood Crag
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
● Orange Crush Brighton Area > Brighton Boulders > Millie Boulder
 45
V6 7A Boulder
● Steorts' Ridge Dead Snag
 802
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 3 pitches
● Outside Corner JHCOB Wall
 781
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 3 pitches
● Eleventh Hour Sundial
 264
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 4 pitches
● Hollow Man Challenge Buttress > N & W Faces
 717
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
● Crescendo JHCOB Wall
 387
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 4 pitches
● High Dive Glass Ocean & Environs
 139
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad 2 pitches
● Social Engineering Dead Snag
 122
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
● Goodro's Wall Storm Mtn Picni… > Storm Mtn Island
 486
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
● Eternal Flow Lonely Challenge Area
 140
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport 2 pitches
● Black Monday S-Curves > S-Curve - Lower
 420
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
● Force of Nature Dead Snag
 75
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
● Gnarth Brooks Direct Gnar Wall
 23
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
● Karmic Whiplash Dark Star Gully
 33
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
● Cross-Eyed and Painless Dogwood Crag
 21
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Big Cottonwood Canyon »

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
 Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D

Add New Photo Drop down
Photos

ALPENBOCK CLIMBING SEMINAR Instructor: Royal Robbins. Date: Sept. 27, 1964. From The Alpenbock Scrapbook, Volume II, page 37
ALPENBOCK CLIMBING SEMINAR Instructor: Royal Ro…
 11
Merrill Bitter high above it all on <em>Conferring with the Sunrise</em> (5.11b), Big Cottonwood Canyon <br> <br> Photo by Jeff Baldwin
Merrill Bitter high above it all on Conferring…
 8
An evening in April, lower BCC
An evening in April, lower BCC
 4
Bone Yard Crag me on Bat Bone 5 11-
Bone Yard Crag me on Bat Bone 5 11-
 7
Spring avalanche debris, Stairs Gulch, from Patty's Ridge. For scale, spot the gamblers in the couloir to the right.
Spring avalanche debris, Stairs Gulch, from Pat…
 2
topping out on sundial peak
topping out on sundial peak
 4
Zak Gerhardt on Herbalicious Bone Yard Crag 5 10d
Zak Gerhardt on Herbalicious Bone Yard Crag 5 10d
 4
Crag Thug Life
Crag Thug Life
 5
Scrambling around in Big Cottonwood in 2019.
Scrambling around in Big Cottonwood in 2019.
 4
This shot was taken near the intersection at the mouth of Big Cottonwood Canyon looking southeast towards Ferguson Canyon. On the right you can see the water tank you hike by on your way into Ferguson from the Prospector neighborhood.
This shot was taken near the intersection at th…
 4
Sundial Peak July 2012.
Sundial Peak July 2012.
 2
From the top of Mt. Olympus, 2001. (Major two canyons are BCC & LCC)
From the top of Mt. Olympus, 2001. (Major two c…
 1

17 Comments

Sort by: Oldest Drop down
Newest Oldest Popular
loading