Elevation: 4,917 ft
GPS: 40.619, -111.789 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 1,446,671 total · 6,918/month
Shared By: Eric Jacobsen on May 6, 2003 with improvements by jawshoe uhh
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

Description

Of the two Cottonwood canyons, BCC is the lesser-known, despite its amazing climbing. There are hundreds of routes on dozens of crags scattered throughout the length and on either side of the canyon.

Climbing is primarily on quartzite, which tends to be slippery and hard; however, the quartzite also offers numerous holds jutting out at all angles. Because protection may be more difficult in quartzite than in the granite of LCC, BCC has more sport routes than LCC, but the majority of BCC routes are trad climbs.

Some of the picnic areas have entrance fees.

SLCA Annual Fundraiser

Ice Climbing

There are a handful of ice routes in Big Cottonwood. Almost all of them are on the north side of the canyon and receive a lot of sunlight so they don't often come in really fat.

When the lines do come in, however, it makes for some enjoyable climbing. Probably not recommended for beginners because the routes are mostly thin, but during a fat year one can find an occasional short climb with top rope potential.

BCC ice generally comes in late and leaves early.

Getting There

Big Cottonwood Canyon climbs east out of Salt Lake City at about 7200 South. From the north, take the I-215 loop to Exit 6, the 6200 South exit.

Head east on Hwy 190, following signs to the ski areas of BCC (Solitude and Brighton). Turn left on Fort Union Blvd, which heads up into the canyon.

From the west, 7200 South becomes Fort Union. From the south, follow Wasatch Blvd and turn right on Fort Union.

836 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Big Cottonwood Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 90
Jam Crack Route
Trad 3 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 564
Steorts' Ridge
Trad 3 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 110
Jig's Up
Trad 3 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 542
Outside Corner
Trad 3 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 181
Eleventh Hour
Trad 4 pitches
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 170
Glass Ocean
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 552
Hollow Man
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 121
High Dive
Trad 2 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 121
Dream Slate
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 153
cTr
Sport
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 243
Better than Bitter
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 409
Goodro's Wall
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 300
Black Monday
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 130
Right Pile
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 84
Left Pile
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Jam Crack Route Mule Hollow Wall
 90
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 3 pitches
Steorts' Ridge Dead Snag
 564
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 3 pitches
Jig's Up Dead Snag
 110
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 3 pitches
Outside Corner JHCOB Wall
 542
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 3 pitches
Eleventh Hour Sundial
 181
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 4 pitches
Glass Ocean Glass Ocean & Environs
 170
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Hollow Man Challenge Buttress > N & W Faces
 552
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
High Dive Glass Ocean & Environs
 121
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad 2 pitches
Dream Slate Narcolepsy Area
 121
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
cTr Challenge Buttress > N & W Faces
 153
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Better than Bitter Challenge Buttress > N & W Faces
 243
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Goodro's Wall Storm Mtn Picni… > Storm Mtn Island
 409
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Black Monday S-Curves > S-Curve - Lower
 300
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Right Pile S-Curves > S-Curve - The Pile
 130
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Left Pile S-Curves > S-Curve - The Pile
 84
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Big Cottonwood Canyon »

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