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Elevation: 4,917 ft 1,499 m
GPS: 40.6193, -111.789
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Shared By: Eric Jacobsen on May 6, 2003 · Updates
Admins: Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane
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Description Suggest change

Of the two Cottonwood canyons, BCC is the lesser-known, despite its amazing climbing. There are hundreds of routes on dozens of crags scattered throughout the length and on either side of the canyon.

Climbing is primarily on quartzite, which tends to be slippery and hard; however, the quartzite also offers numerous holds jutting out at all angles. Because protection may be more difficult in quartzite than in the granite of LCC, BCC has more sport routes than LCC, but the majority of BCC routes are trad climbs.

Some of the picnic areas have entrance fees.

Ice Climbing Suggest change

There are a handful of ice routes in Big Cottonwood. Almost all of them are on the north side of the canyon and receive a lot of sunlight so they don't often come in really fat.

When the lines do come in, however, it makes for some enjoyable climbing. Probably not recommended for beginners because the routes are mostly thin, but during a fat year one can find an occasional short climb with top rope potential.

BCC ice generally comes in late and leaves early.

Getting There

Suggest change
Big Cottonwood Canyon climbs east out of Salt Lake City at about 7200 South. From the north, take the I-215 loop to Exit 6, the 6200 South exit.

Head east on Hwy 190, following signs to the ski areas of BCC (Solitude and Brighton). Turn left on Fort Union Blvd, which heads up into the canyon.

From the west, 7200 South becomes Fort Union. From the south, follow Wasatch Blvd and turn right on Fort Union.

1,029 Total Climbs

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Location: Big Cottonwood Canyon Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Big Cottonwood Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V6 7A
 45
● Orange Crush
Boulder
Brighton Area > Brighton Boulders > Millie Boulder
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 754
● Steorts' Ridge
Trad 3 pitches
Dead Snag
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 740
● Outside Corner
Trad 3 pitches
JHCOB Wall
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 693
● Hollow Man
Sport
Challenge Buttress > N & W Faces
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 338
● Crescendo
Trad 4 pitches
JHCOB Wall
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 137
● High Dive
Trad 2 pitches
Glass Ocean & Environs
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 117
● Social Engineering
Trad
Dead Snag
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 311
● Better than Bitter
Sport
Challenge Buttress > N & W Faces
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 478
● Goodro's Wall
Trad
Storm Mtn Picni… > Storm Mtn Island
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 78
● Psychobabble
Trad
Storm Mtn Picni… > Psychobabble Wall
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 132
● Eternal Flow
Sport 2 pitches
Lonely Challenge Area
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 406
● Black Monday
Sport
S-Curves > S-Curve - Lower
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 73
● Force of Nature
Trad
Dead Snag
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 17
● Gnarth Brooks Direct
Sport
Gnar Wall
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 28
● Karmic Whiplash
Sport
Dark Star Gully
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
● Orange Crush Brighton Area > Brighton Boulders > Millie Boulder
 45
V6 7A Boulder
● Steorts' Ridge Dead Snag
 754
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 3 pitches
● Outside Corner JHCOB Wall
 740
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 3 pitches
● Hollow Man Challenge Buttress > N & W Faces
 693
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
● Crescendo JHCOB Wall
 338
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 4 pitches
● High Dive Glass Ocean & Environs
 137
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad 2 pitches
● Social Engineering Dead Snag
 117
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
● Better than Bitter Challenge Buttress > N & W Faces
 311
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
● Goodro's Wall Storm Mtn Picni… > Storm Mtn Island
 478
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
● Psychobabble Storm Mtn Picni… > Psychobabble Wall
 78
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
● Eternal Flow Lonely Challenge Area
 132
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport 2 pitches
● Black Monday S-Curves > S-Curve - Lower
 406
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
● Force of Nature Dead Snag
 73
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
● Gnarth Brooks Direct Gnar Wall
 17
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
● Karmic Whiplash Dark Star Gully
 28
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Big Cottonwood Canyon »

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Photos

ALPENBOCK CLIMBING SEMINAR Instructor: Royal Robbins. Date: Sept. 27, 1964. From The Alpenbock Scrapbook, Volume II, page 37
ALPENBOCK CLIMBING SEMINAR Instructor: Royal Ro…
 8
Merrill Bitter high above it all on <em>Conferring with the Sunrise</em> (5.11b), Big Cottonwood Canyon <br> <br> Photo by Jeff Baldwin
Merrill Bitter high above it all on Conferring…
 7
Bone Yard Crag me on Bat Bone 5 11-
Bone Yard Crag me on Bat Bone 5 11-
 7
An evening in April, lower BCC
An evening in April, lower BCC
 3
Salt Lake Climbing Festival SaltLakeClimbingFestival.com CELEBRATE OUR COMMUNITY. ELEVATE YOUR CLIMBING SKILLS.
Salt Lake Climbing Festival SaltLakeClimbingFes…
 1
Spring avalanche debris, Stairs Gulch, from Patty's Ridge. For scale, spot the gamblers in the couloir to the right.
Spring avalanche debris, Stairs Gulch, from Pat…
 2
topping out on sundial peak
topping out on sundial peak
 4
Zak Gerhardt on Herbalicious Bone Yard Crag 5 10d
Zak Gerhardt on Herbalicious Bone Yard Crag 5 10d
 4
Crag Thug Life
Crag Thug Life
 5
Scrambling around in Big Cottonwood in 2019.
Scrambling around in Big Cottonwood in 2019.
 4
This shot was taken near the intersection at the mouth of Big Cottonwood Canyon looking southeast towards Ferguson Canyon. On the right you can see the water tank you hike by on your way into Ferguson from the Prospector neighborhood.
This shot was taken near the intersection at th…
 4
Sundial Peak July 2012. Trip report: http://rjohnasay.blogspot.com/2012/08/utah-sundial-peak-eleventh-hour-59.html
Sundial Peak July 2012. Trip report: http://rj…
 2

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