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Elevation: 4,917 ft
GPS: 40.6193, -111.789
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 2,317,904 total · 9,474/month
Shared By: Eric Jacobsen on May 6, 2003 · Updates
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C
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Description

Of the two Cottonwood canyons, BCC is the lesser-known, despite its amazing climbing. There are hundreds of routes on dozens of crags scattered throughout the length and on either side of the canyon.

Climbing is primarily on quartzite, which tends to be slippery and hard; however, the quartzite also offers numerous holds jutting out at all angles. Because protection may be more difficult in quartzite than in the granite of LCC, BCC has more sport routes than LCC, but the majority of BCC routes are trad climbs.

Some of the picnic areas have entrance fees.

SLCA Annual Fundraiser

JOIN US FOR OUR 9TH ANNUAL SALT LAKE CLIMBING FESTIVAL!

Presented by Black Diamond and Momentum Climbing 

August 27-28th, Solitude Mtn Resort (Moonbeam Parking Lot) 

Tickets: saltlakeclimbingfestival.com

 

CELEBRATE OUR COMMUNITY. ELEVATE YOUR CLIMBING SKILLS.

A weekend of skills based climbing clinics and festivities brought to you by the Salt Lake Climbers Alliance and fueled by our local guide outfitters, artists, and outdoor industry partners.

 

ALL PROCEEDS FROM THIS EVENT GO BACK TO STEWARDSHIP OF WASATCH CRAGS.

Set in our own beautiful backyard of the Wasatch Front, there are skills-based climbing clinics for both beginner and seasoned climbers. Clinics will run in single and two-day formats, with our base camp, dinner and festivities held at Brighton Ski Resort. 

 

Saturday night only tickets that include dinner, activities, live music, and drinks are also available. For ages 14+ we welcome all ability levels and identities to learn and grow with us as our local climbing community blossoms. 

Be sure to invite your friends! 

Ice Climbing

There are a handful of ice routes in Big Cottonwood. Almost all of them are on the north side of the canyon and receive a lot of sunlight so they don't often come in really fat.

When the lines do come in, however, it makes for some enjoyable climbing. Probably not recommended for beginners because the routes are mostly thin, but during a fat year one can find an occasional short climb with top rope potential.

BCC ice generally comes in late and leaves early.

Getting There

Big Cottonwood Canyon climbs east out of Salt Lake City at about 7200 South. From the north, take the I-215 loop to Exit 6, the 6200 South exit.

Head east on Hwy 190, following signs to the ski areas of BCC (Solitude and Brighton). Turn left on Fort Union Blvd, which heads up into the canyon.

From the west, 7200 South becomes Fort Union. From the south, follow Wasatch Blvd and turn right on Fort Union.

994 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Big Cottonwood Canyon Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Big Cottonwood Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 688
● Steorts' Ridge
Trad 3 pitches
Dead Snag
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 147
● Jig's Up
Trad 3 pitches
Dead Snag
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 666
● Outside Corner
Trad 3 pitches
JHCOB Wall
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 213
● Eleventh Hour
Trad 4 pitches
Sundial
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 180
● Glass Ocean
Sport
Glass Ocean & Environs
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 645
● Hollow Man
Sport
Challenge Buttress > N & W Faces
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 264
● Crescendo
Trad 4 pitches
JHCOB Wall
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 132
● High Dive
Trad 2 pitches
Glass Ocean & Environs
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 94
● Social Engineering
Trad
Dead Snag
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 297
● Better than Bitter
Sport
Challenge Buttress > N & W Faces
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 463
● Goodro's Wall
Trad
Storm Mtn Picni… > Storm Mtn Island
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 88
● Eternal Flow
Sport 2 pitches
Lonely Challenge Area
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 371
● Black Monday
Sport
S-Curves > S-Curve - Lower
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 168
● Right Pile
Sport
S-Curves > S-Curve - The Pile
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 101
● Left Pile
Sport
S-Curves > S-Curve - The Pile
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
● Steorts' Ridge Dead Snag
 688
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 3 pitches
● Jig's Up Dead Snag
 147
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 3 pitches
● Outside Corner JHCOB Wall
 666
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 3 pitches
● Eleventh Hour Sundial
 213
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 4 pitches
● Glass Ocean Glass Ocean & Environs
 180
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
● Hollow Man Challenge Buttress > N & W Faces
 645
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
● Crescendo JHCOB Wall
 264
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 4 pitches
● High Dive Glass Ocean & Environs
 132
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad 2 pitches
● Social Engineering Dead Snag
 94
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
● Better than Bitter Challenge Buttress > N & W Faces
 297
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
● Goodro's Wall Storm Mtn Picni… > Storm Mtn Island
 463
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
● Eternal Flow Lonely Challenge Area
 88
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport 2 pitches
● Black Monday S-Curves > S-Curve - Lower
 371
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
● Right Pile S-Curves > S-Curve - The Pile
 168
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
● Left Pile S-Curves > S-Curve - The Pile
 101
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Big Cottonwood Canyon »

Weather Averages

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Prime Climbing Season
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Photos

Merrill Bitter high above it all on <em>Conferring with the Sunrise</em> (5.11b), Big Cottonwood Canyon <br> <br> Photo by Jeff Baldwin
Merrill Bitter high above it all on Conferring…
 7
Bone Yard Crag me on Bat Bone 5 11-
Bone Yard Crag me on Bat Bone 5 11-
 6
An evening in April, lower BCC
An evening in April, lower BCC
 3
Salt Lake Climbing Festival SaltLakeClimbingFestival.com CELEBRATE OUR COMMUNITY. ELEVATE YOUR CLIMBING SKILLS.
Salt Lake Climbing Festival SaltLakeClimbingFes…
 1
Zak Gerhardt on Herbalicious Bone Yard Crag 5 10d
Zak Gerhardt on Herbalicious Bone Yard Crag 5 10d
 3
topping out on sundial peak
topping out on sundial peak
 4
Scrambling around in Big Cottonwood in 2019.
Scrambling around in Big Cottonwood in 2019.
 3
This shot was taken near the intersection at the mouth of Big Cottonwood Canyon looking southeast towards Ferguson Canyon. On the right you can see the water tank you hike by on your way into Ferguson from the Prospector neighborhood.
This shot was taken near the intersection at th…
 4
Crag Thug Life
Crag Thug Life
 4
Sundial Peak July 2012. Trip report: http://rjohnasay.blogspot.com/2012/08/utah-sundial-peak-eleventh-hour-59.html
Sundial Peak July 2012. Trip report: http://rj…
 2
Sundial Peak July 2012. Trip report: http://rjohnasay.blogspot.com/2012/08/utah-sundial-peak-eleventh-hour-59.html
Sundial Peak July 2012. Trip report: http://rj…
 2
From the top of Mt. Olympus, 2001. (Major two canyons are BCC & LCC)
From the top of Mt. Olympus, 2001. (Major two c…
 1

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