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Routes in Dark Star Gully

Birds, The T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Black Heart T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b X
Dark Star T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Darwin T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fine Arete S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Karmic Whiplash S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Scratch My Back S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Spring Fling T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Spring into Action S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wraith, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 55 ft
FA: Doug Heinrich, Kevin Fosburg, 1996
Page Views: 1,014 total · 14/month
Shared By: John Steiger on Jun 22, 2012
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

If 12a/b is your standard, warm up on The Wraith, then test your karma on this. Karmic Whiplash opens up with technical and powerful moves on great rock past three bolts to a rest of sorts, then takes big flat holds leading left and up on easier but pumpy ground past three more bolts to chains. Slightly overhanging the whole way. Consider using a stick clip for the first bolt; a bone-snapping landing awaits the bold but careless. Unlike The Wraith, Karmic Whiplash's bolts all look good. Better than Big in Japan, IMO.

There's a two-bolt extension that heads left from the last bolt before the chains, which apparently was added sometime after publication of the Ruckmans' guide in 1998 (the extension is not shown in their guide). We didn't climb it, but my bet is that it bumps the grade up a notch or two; if you do it, post up!

Location

Just left of The Wraith. See the page for The Wraith for the approach.

Protection

Six draws, plus two for the chains.

Photos

Spencer Weiler
Salt Lake city
 
Spencer Weiler   Salt Lake city
 
Holy crap this is stout! Similar to "Big in Japan" in desperation factor. Hard right off the deck through bolts 1-3. Clipping bolt 2 seemed near impossible. We were unable to figure out how to get out of the finger stack. Reminded me of "Aint no Party" at Dogwood. Last half of the climb is really fun BCC flat jugs on a steep wall. Didn't do the extension. Recommend doing "the Wraith" first and clipping through bolt 3 on the way down to work the crux out on TR. Need to go boulder some more before trying this one again. Jun 11, 2014

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