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Routes in Dark Star Gully

Birds, The T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Black Heart T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b X
Dark Star T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Darwin T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fine Arete S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Karmic Whiplash S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Scratch My Back S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Spring Fling T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Spring into Action S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wraith, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,195 total · 6/month
Shared By: Nathan Fisher on Dec 31, 2002
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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18 Opinions

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This is a nice climb that rises out of the water right on the arete that separates Dark Star from Autumnal Wall. Good clips, steep to overhanging rock. It does share a lot of its line with Shibumi.


2 bolts up top for the anchors. 8 draws for the climb


Garrett C
Garrett C   SL, UT
For years I have thought this was creekside crag and a different climb entirely. Glad I discovered what it really is. Fun, pumpy climb that goes out of the stream, lots of passing traffic for the glory seekers. Apr 18, 2014
Tyler King
Salt Lake, UT
Tyler King   Salt Lake, UT
Lots of bolts! Great for an aspiring 11 leader. Good holds, more pumpy than anything. Aug 27, 2008
vincent pierce
vincent pierce  
I meant to put 11a! See my 2nd comment. Of course if u think it is 11b I will take that instead. Haha. Jul 26, 2004
I think he meant to put 5.11a? We can change it if so. Jul 22, 2004
This route crosses over the old route Shibumi. Shibumi (look at Ruckman's guide) does a hand traverse along the ledge, gets to the arete and then crosses left at the faint left diagonalling cracks near the top. They share the middle bolts. Shibumi's crux was on the arete and was rated 5.11a. The FA of the arete line called it a 5.11b. I have done it and would call it a 5.11a. However, I wouldn't argue over 5.11a or 5.11b. Now to the 5.11d rating, I would be hard pressed to agree with you on that. I need to get back on it and see what I think. Anyone else have an opinion on this route? Jul 22, 2004
vincent pierce
vincent pierce  
That rating is supposed to be 11.a! Jul 22, 2004
vincent pierce
vincent pierce  
This route is really FUN! Reminds me a bit of Black Monday. Though it is not as steep it has those good holds that keep coming at ya. Pumped when u get to the crux near the last bolt. Try to stay off the blocky stuff to the right down low or u are just cheating yourself. I have heard it is called "fine arete". Jul 21, 2004

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