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Routes in Dark Star Gully

Birds, The T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Black Heart T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b X
Dark Star T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Darwin T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fine Arete S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Karmic Whiplash S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Scratch My Back S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Spring Fling T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Spring into Action S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wraith, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Randy Kieliszewski 2002
Page Views: 593 total, 4/month
Shared By: Ryan Brough on Sep 1, 2006
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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This is a pretty contrived route that follows the most difficult line (5.11a) on the West face. There are so many easier ways around the cruxes that it can only qualify for 5.10c. Mostly a jug haul, this route sports ample rest ledges for the pumped. If there weren't such obvious alternative methods to climbing this route, it would probably earn another star because it is relatively long and continuous for the area. My favorite cruxes are between the second and third bolts, and the approach to the anchors.


Towards the bottom of the gully, find a short fist crack on the West wall. There is a steep face with a bolt at the top. The bolt line continues up and to the right through the most overhanging parts of the face. Rappel off from the chains at the top.


8 bolts to 2 chain anchors.


I have added the name to this route and a bit of info: The beta I saw rated it a 5.11. I will leave as is, with this comment reporting the 5.11 rating. Sep 2, 2006