All Locations > Utah > Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Big Cottonwood Canyon

Dark Star Gully Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Dark Star Gully

L › R R › L A › Z

	Birds, The T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
	Black Heart T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b X
	Dark Star T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
	Darwin T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Fine Arete S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Karmic Whiplash S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Scratch My Back S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Spring Fling T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
	Spring into Action S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Wraith, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Unsorted Routes:

Order Wrong? Sort Routes

Explore this area in 3D

Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Elevation:	5,769 ft	1,758 m
GPS:	40.62348, -111.74585 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	17,178 total · 63/month
Shared By:	Nathan Fisher on Apr 8, 2004 · Updates
Admins:	Drew B, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher Page Updates (admin only)

See Weather Forecast

Description

A gully located right at Stairs Gulch. It is on the north side of the road, and consists of mainly trad routes with some bolted routes. Good anchors on most of the climbs make for easy descents. The climbs range from 5.6 to 5.12b. They mostly face the west with a bit of southerly exposure. So they tend to be warm. Poison oak can be a problem in the upper reaches. Some of the climbs are right on the stream and therefore wet in the spring.

Getting There

Park at the Stairs Gulch pullout on the north side of the road, just before the Storm Mountain Picnic Area. Cross the stream at the gully and climb.

If accessing the upper climbs (Karmic Whiplash, The Wraith) there is an alternative approach that avoids the poison ivy and the rushing creek crossing in the spring and summer. Park in the Storm Mountain Picnic Area for a fee or outside of it for free. Once in the picnic area, cross the paved bridge and head left towards the Storm Mountain Amphitheater. Pass the amphitheater and take a right to access a trail which eventually cuts back south along the ridge line. Continue straight on this trail past an obvious four-way intersection. Shortly after this intersection, there is a sizable boulder and a faint trail on the left. Take this faint trail for about a minute and it will deposit you directly into the gully (15 mins).

10 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location:	Dark Star Gully Change
Type:	to Trad Sport Toprope
Quality:
Pitches:
Sort by:	then:

Classic Climbing Routes at Dark Star Gully

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c 22 ● Fine Arete Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c 25 ● The Wraith Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b 37 ● Karmic Whiplash Sport