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Routes in Dark Star Gully

Birds, The T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Black Heart T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b X
Dark Star T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Darwin T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fine Arete S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Karmic Whiplash S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Scratch My Back S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Spring Fling T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Spring into Action S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wraith, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
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Type: Sport, 30 ft
FA: Todd Evans, Drew Bedford 1989
Page Views: 130 total · 1/month
Shared By: Nathan Fisher on Jun 27, 2004
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Climb up the loose trail throught the thorns, poison ivy? (I'll let you know in a day or two), and slippery packed dirt. On your right, near the head of the gully, is a glassy face up a couple of ledges. This is down gully from the 2 steep bolted lines. This is the bolted route on the left of the glassy face. Scramble up to the 1st ledge and enjoy the face. Steep, but with well-spaced good holds. Find your holds, work the feet, and make the necessary reaches. Too short a climb and with too many ledges for anything but 1 star, but good for a short climb.


3 draws for the climb, 2 more for the chains, and I used a .75 camalot to protect the initial moves, but it wasn't totally necessary.


Lee Gitlin
Lee Gitlin  
This route has more going for it than it's little brother, Spring Fling. If you have good contact strength, the arete has plenty of holds. More positive options exist slightly right of the bolt line, though the holds are fewer. Some tough strength moves below the anchor chains make for a surprisingly sustained line, given the route's relatively short length. Be careful lowering/rapping into a tree at the base of the route. Jun 29, 2004

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