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Routes in The Speed Trap

Mach 5 S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Neon Leon S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nitrous Oxide S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Speed Racer S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Speed Trap S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Elevation: 5,455 ft
GPS: 40.623, -111.756 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 5,043 total · 30/month
Shared By: Nathan Fisher on Apr 7, 2004
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

Description

All bolted routes on a steep east facing fin of rock, that will make the hair on the back of your neck stand on end. Walk-offs or raps are possible. The climbing is not for the weak of heart.

Getting There

Just Before Stairs Power Plant on the north side of the road is an access road with a heavy gate. Look and see, then climb.

5 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Speed Trap

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Mach 5
Sport
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Speed Trap
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Mach 5 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Speed Trap 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
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Photos

Anyone know anything about the trad line going up the side of this thing? Rating/Quality? Apr 29, 2015
Tried to climb there today. I found a bunch of butchered roosters, fruit, and sheep legs at the base of it. I am serious it was disgusting. Apparently the site was used for some pagan ritual involving animal sacrafice. I called canyon police and showed an officer the site but anyone who was think about going up there I'd say wait until next season. There is a lot of blood on the rock. Oct 7, 2013
Mark SLC
Salt Lake City, UT
Mark SLC   Salt Lake City, UT
Yes Andrew you are right. A little sarcasm buddy. Point is its a good place to get some fitness in if you dont mind the road noise. Jun 2, 2013
Andrew Gram
Salt Lake City, UT
Andrew Gram   Salt Lake City, UT  
Why on earth would a roadside crag in BCC have an alpine feel? The Sundial way the hell above Lake Blanche barely has an alpine feel. Apr 28, 2013
Mark SLC
Salt Lake City, UT
Mark SLC   Salt Lake City, UT
Not exactly an alpine feel here, but the climbing is surprisingly good and great for fitness if you dont have much time. Better climbing here than I was expecting.
Well bolted. Just hard to figure out which bolt belongs to which at first. Anchors and a couple bolts less than inspiring condition though. Could use some ASCA love. Apr 26, 2013
Just do the .10a twice, then the .11 The holds are huge. Jun 18, 2009
Boissal
Small Lake, UT
Boissal   Small Lake, UT
Steeeeeeeeeeep wall, it looks like another insignificant choss pile from the road but up close the routes look cleaner.
Lots of big pulls from crimps, bad feet, a bit of loose rock, and intimidating stack of blocks at the bottom and some seriously old school bolting and rating will hold your attention.

Might be good to warm up at another area... Jun 18, 2009

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